Document
UNITED STATES
SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION
Washington, D.C. 20549
FORM 10-K
|
| |
ý | ANNUAL REPORT PURSUANT TO SECTION 13 OR 15(d) OF THE SECURITIES EXCHANGE ACT OF 1934 |
For the fiscal year ended January 28, 2017 |
or |
o | TRANSITION REPORT PURSUANT TO SECTION 13 OR 15(d) OF THE SECURITIES EXCHANGE ACT OF 1934 |
For the transition period from to |
Commission File Number: 1-4365
OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
(Exact name of registrant as specified in its charter)
|
| | |
Georgia (State or other jurisdiction of incorporation or organization) | | 58-0831862 (I.R.S. Employer Identification No.) |
999 Peachtree Street, N.E., Suite 688, Atlanta, Georgia 30309 (Address of principal executive offices) (Zip Code) |
Registrant's telephone number, including area code: (404) 659-2424 |
Securities registered pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act: |
|
| | |
Title of each class | | Name of each exchange on which registered |
Common Stock, $1 par value | | New York Stock Exchange |
Securities registered pursuant to Section 12(g) of the Act: NONE |
Indicate by check mark if the registrant is a well-known seasoned issuer as defined in Rule 405 of the Securities Act. Yes ý No o
Indicate by check mark if the registrant is not required to file reports pursuant to Section 13 or Section 15(d) of the Act. Yes o No ý
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant (1) has filed all reports required to be filed by Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to file such reports), and (2) has been subject to such filing requirements for the past 90 days. Yes ý No o
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant has submitted electronically and posted on its corporate Web site, if any, every Interactive Data File required to be submitted and posted pursuant to Rule 405 of Regulation S-T during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to submit and post such files). Yes ý No o
Indicate by check mark if disclosure of delinquent filers pursuant to Item 405 of Regulation S-K is not contained herein, and will not be contained, to the best of registrant's knowledge, in definitive proxy or information statements incorporated by reference in Part III of this Form 10-K or any amendment to this Form 10-K. ý
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a large accelerated filer, an accelerated filer, a non-accelerated filer or a smaller reporting company. See the definitions of "large accelerated filer," "accelerated filer" and "smaller reporting company" in Rule 12b-2 of the Exchange Act.
|
| | | |
Large accelerated filer ý | Accelerated filer o | Non-accelerated filer o | Smaller reporting company o |
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a shell company (as defined in Rule 12b-2 of the Act). Yes o No ý
As of July 29, 2016, which is the last business day of the registrant's most recently completed second fiscal quarter, the aggregate market value of the voting stock held by non-affiliates of the registrant (based upon the closing price for the common stock on the New York Stock Exchange on that date) was $928,252,209. For purposes of this calculation only, shares of voting stock directly and indirectly attributable to executive officers, directors and holders of 10% or more of the registrant's voting stock (based on Schedule 13G filings made as of or prior to July 29, 2016) are excluded. This determination of affiliate status and the calculation of the shares held by any such person are not necessarily conclusive determinations for other purposes.
Indicate the number of shares outstanding of each of the registrant's classes of common stock, as of the latest practicable date.
|
| | |
Title of Each Class | | Number of Shares Outstanding as of March 15, 2017 |
Common Stock, $1 par value | | 16,768,230 |
Documents Incorporated by Reference
Portions of our proxy statement to be filed with the Securities and Exchange Commission pursuant to Regulation 14A relating to the Annual Meeting of Shareholders of Oxford Industries, Inc. to be held on June 14, 2017 are incorporated by reference in Part III of this Form 10-K.
Table of Contents
CAUTIONARY STATEMENTS REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS
Our SEC filings and public announcements may include forward-looking statements about future events. Generally, the words "believe," "expect," "intend," "estimate," "anticipate," "project," "will" and similar expressions identify forward-looking statements, which generally are not historical in nature. We intend for all forward-looking statements contained herein, in our press releases or on our website, and all subsequent written and oral forward-looking statements attributable to us or persons acting on our behalf, to be covered by the safe harbor provisions for forward-looking statements within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995 and the provisions of Section 27A of the Securities Act of 1933 and Section 21E of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 (which Sections were adopted as part of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995). Such statements are subject to a number of risks, uncertainties and assumptions including, without limitation, competitive conditions, which may be impacted by evolving consumer shopping patterns; the impact of economic conditions on consumer demand and spending for apparel and related products, particularly in light of general economic uncertainty; changes in international, federal or state tax, trade and other laws and regulations, including changes in corporate tax rates, quota restrictions or the imposition of safeguard controls; demand for our products; timing of shipments requested by our wholesale customers; expected pricing levels; retention of and disciplined execution by key management; the timing and cost of store openings and of planned capital expenditures; weather; costs of products as well as the raw materials used in those products; costs of labor; acquisition and disposition activities; expected outcomes of pending or potential litigation and regulatory actions; access to capital and/or credit markets; our ability to timely recognize our expected synergies from any acquisitions we pursue; and factors that could affect our consolidated effective tax rate such as the results of foreign operations or stock based compensation. Forward-looking statements reflect our current expectations, based on currently available information, and are not guarantees of performance. Although we believe that the expectations reflected in such forward-looking statements are reasonable, these expectations could prove inaccurate as such statements involve risks and uncertainties, many of which are beyond our ability to control or predict. Should one or more of these risks or uncertainties, or other risks or uncertainties not currently known to us or that we currently deem to be immaterial, materialize, or should underlying assumptions prove incorrect, actual results may vary materially from those anticipated, estimated or projected. Important factors relating to these risks and uncertainties include, but are not limited to, those described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors and elsewhere in this report and those described from time to time in our future reports filed with the SEC. We caution that one should not place undue reliance on forward-looking statements, which speak only as of the date on which they are made. We disclaim any intention, obligation or duty to update or revise any forward-looking statements, whether as a result of new information, future events or otherwise, except as required by law.
DEFINITIONS
As used in this report, unless the context requires otherwise, "our," "us" or "we" means Oxford Industries, Inc. and its consolidated subsidiaries; "SG&A" means selling, general and administrative expenses; "SEC" means U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission; "FASB" means Financial Accounting Standards Board; "ASC" means the FASB Accounting Standards Codification; "GAAP" means generally accepted accounting principles in the United States; and "discontinued operations" means the assets and operations of our former Ben Sherman operating group which we sold in July 2015. Unless otherwise indicated, all references to assets, liabilities, revenues, expenses or other information in this report reflect continuing operations and exclude any amounts related to the discontinued operations of our former Ben Sherman operating group. Additionally, the
terms listed below reflect the respective period noted: |
| |
Fiscal 2018 | 52 weeks ending February 2, 2019 |
Fiscal 2017 | 53 weeks ending February 3, 2018 |
Fiscal 2016 | 52 weeks ended January 28, 2017 |
Fiscal 2015 | 52 weeks ended January 30, 2016 |
Fiscal 2014 | 52 weeks ended January 31, 2015 |
Fiscal 2013 | 52 weeks ended February 1, 2014 |
Fiscal 2012 | 53 weeks ended February 2, 2013 |
Fourth quarter Fiscal 2017 | 14 weeks ending February 3, 2018 |
Third quarter Fiscal 2017 | 13 weeks ending October 28, 2017 |
Second quarter Fiscal 2017 | 13 weeks ending July 29, 2017 |
First quarter Fiscal 2017 | 13 weeks ending April 29, 2017 |
Fourth quarter Fiscal 2016 | 13 weeks ended January 28, 2017 |
Third quarter Fiscal 2016 | 13 weeks ended October 29, 2016 |
Second quarter Fiscal 2016 | 13 weeks ended July 30, 2016 |
First quarter Fiscal 2016 | 13 weeks ended April 30, 2016 |
Fourth quarter Fiscal 2015 | 13 weeks ended January 30, 2016 |
Third quarter Fiscal 2015 | 13 weeks ended October 31, 2015 |
Second quarter Fiscal 2015 | 13 weeks ended August 1, 2015 |
First quarter Fiscal 2015 | 13 weeks ended May 2, 2015 |
PART I
Item 1. Business
BUSINESS AND PRODUCTS
Overview
We are a global apparel company that designs, sources, markets and distributes products bearing the trademarks of our Tommy Bahama®, Lilly Pulitzer® and Southern Tide® lifestyle brands, other owned brands and licensed brands as well as private label apparel products. During Fiscal 2016, 92% of our net sales were from products bearing brands that we own and 66% of our net sales were through our direct to consumer channels of distribution. In Fiscal 2016, 96% of our consolidated net sales were to customers located in the United States, with the sales outside the United States consisting primarily of our Tommy Bahama products in Canada and the Asia-Pacific region.
Our business strategy is to develop and market compelling lifestyle brands and products that evoke a strong emotional response from our target consumers. We consider lifestyle brands to be those brands that have a clearly defined and targeted point of view inspired by an appealing lifestyle or attitude. Furthermore, we believe lifestyle brands like Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide that create an emotional connection with consumers can command greater loyalty and higher price points at retail and create licensing opportunities, which may drive higher earnings. We believe the attraction of a lifestyle brand depends on creating compelling product, effectively communicating the respective lifestyle brand message and distributing products to consumers where and when they want it.
Our ability to compete successfully in styling and marketing is directly related to our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference, and presenting appealing products for consumers. Our design-led, commercially informed lifestyle brand operations strive to provide exciting, differentiated products each season.
To further strengthen each lifestyle brand's connections with consumers, we directly communicate with consumers through electronic and print media on a regular basis. We believe our ability to effectively communicate the images, lifestyle and products of our brands and create an emotional connection with consumers is critical to the success of the brands. Our advertising for our brands often attempts to convey the lifestyle of the brand as well as a specific product.
We distribute our owned lifestyle branded products primarily through our direct to consumer channels, consisting of our Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores and our e-commerce sites for Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide, and through our wholesale distribution channels. Our direct to consumer operations provide us with the opportunity to interact directly with our customers, present to them a broad assortment of our current season products and immerse them in the theme of the lifestyle brand. We believe that presenting our products in a setting specifically designed to showcase the lifestyle on which the brands are based enhances the image of our brands. Our 128 Tommy Bahama and 40 Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores provide high visibility for our brands and products, and allow us to stay close to the preferences of our consumers, while also providing a platform for long-term growth for the brands. In Tommy Bahama, we also operate 17 restaurants, generally adjacent to a Tommy Bahama full-price retail store location, which we believe further enhance the brand's image with consumers.
Additionally, our e-commerce websites, which represented 18% of our consolidated net sales in Fiscal 2016, provide the opportunity to increase revenues by reaching a larger population of consumers and at the same time allow our brands to provide a broader range of products. Our e-commerce flash clearance sales on our websites and our 40 Tommy Bahama outlet stores play an important role in overall brand and inventory management by allowing us to sell discontinued and out-of-season products in brand appropriate settings and often at better prices than are typically available from third party off-price retailers.
The wholesale operations of our lifestyle brands complement our direct to consumer operations and provide access to a larger group of consumers. As we seek to maintain the integrity of our lifestyle brands by limiting promotional activity in our full-price retail stores and e-commerce websites, we generally target wholesale customers that follow this same approach in their stores. Our wholesale customers for our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide brands include better department stores and specialty stores, including Signature Stores for Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide. Within our Lanier Apparel operating group, we sell tailored clothing and sportswear products under licensed brands, private labels and owned brands. Lanier Apparel's customers include department stores, discount and off-price retailers, warehouse clubs, national chains, specialty retailers and others throughout the United States.
All of our operating groups operate in highly competitive apparel markets in which numerous U.S.-based and foreign apparel firms compete. No single apparel firm or small group of apparel firms dominates the apparel industry, and our direct
competitors vary by operating group and distribution channel. We believe the principal competitive factors in the apparel industry are reputation, value, and image of brand names; design; consumer preference; price; quality; marketing; product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service. The apparel industry is cyclical and very dependent upon the overall level and focus of discretionary consumer spending, which changes as regional, domestic and international economic conditions change. Often, negative economic conditions have a longer and more severe impact on the apparel industry than on other industries. We believe current global economic conditions and the resulting economic uncertainty continue to impact our business, and the apparel industry as a whole.
We believe the retail apparel market is evolving very rapidly and in ways that are having a disruptive impact on traditional fashion retailing. The application of technology, including the internet and mobile devices, to fashion retail provides consumers increasing access to multiple, responsive distribution platforms and an unprecedented ability to communicate directly with brands, retailers and others. As a result, consumers have more information and broader, faster and cheaper access to goods than they have ever had before. This, along with the coming of age of the “millennial” generation, is revolutionizing the way that consumers shop for fashion and other goods. The evidence is increasingly apparent with marked weakness in department stores and mall-based retailers, decreased consumer retail traffic, a more promotional retail environment, expansion of off-price and discount retailers, and growing internet purchases.
Important factors relating to certain risks, many of which are beyond our ability to control or predict, which could impact our business are described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors of this report.
Investments and Opportunities
While evolution in the fashion retail industry presents significant risks, especially for traditional retailers who fail or are unable to adapt, we believe it also presents a tremendous opportunity for brands and retailers. We believe our brands have attributes that are true competitive advantages in this new retailing paradigm and we are leveraging technology to serve our consumers when and where they want to be served. We continue to believe that our lifestyle brands are well suited to succeed and thrive in the long term while managing the various challenges facing our industry.
Specifically, we believe our lifestyle brands have opportunities for long-term growth in their direct to consumer businesses. We anticipate increased sales in our e-commerce operations, which are expected to grow at a faster rate than bricks and mortar comparable full-price retail store sales. This growth can also be achieved through prudent expansion of bricks and mortar full-price retail store operations and modest comparable full-price retail store sales increases. Despite the changes in the retail environment, we expect there will continue to be desirable locations to increase our store count.
Our lifestyle brands also have an opportunity for modest sales increases in their wholesale businesses in the long term primarily from current customers adding to their existing door count and increasing their on-line business, increased sales to on-line retailers and the selective addition of new wholesale customers who generally follow a retail model with limited discounting; however, we must be diligent in our effort to avoid compromising the integrity of the brand by maintaining or growing sales with wholesale customers that may not be aligned with our long-term strategy. This is particularly important with the challenges in the department store channel, which represents about one-half of our consolidated wholesale sales, or 16% of our consolidated net sales. We also believe that there are opportunities for modest sales growth for Lanier Apparel in the future through new product programs for existing and new customers.
We believe we must continue to invest in our lifestyle brands to take advantage of their long-term growth opportunities. Investments include capital expenditures primarily related to the direct to consumer operations such as technology enhancements, e-commerce initiatives, full-price retail store and restaurant build-out for new and relocated locations as well as remodels, and distribution center and administrative office expansion initiatives. Additionally, while we anticipate increased employment, advertising and other costs in key functions to support the ongoing business operations and fuel future sales growth, we remain focused on appropriately managing our operating expenses.
In the midst of the challenges in our industry, an important focus for us in Fiscal 2017 is advancing various initiatives to increase the profitability of the Tommy Bahama business. These initiatives generally focus on increasing gross margin and operating margin through efforts such as: product cost reductions; selective price increases; reducing inventory purchases; more rapidly clearing excess inventory; redefining our approach to inventory clearance; effectively managing controllable and discretionary operating expenses; taking a more conservative approach to full-price retail store and outlet openings and renewals; and continuing our efforts to reduce Asia-Pacific operating losses.
We continue to believe it is important to maintain a strong balance sheet and liquidity. We believe positive cash flow from operations in the future coupled with the strength of our balance sheet and liquidity will provide us with sufficient
resources to fund future investments in our owned lifestyle brands. While we believe we have significant opportunities to appropriately deploy our capital and resources in our existing lifestyle brands, we will continue to evaluate opportunities to add additional lifestyle brands to our portfolio if we identify appropriate targets which meet our investment criteria.
We believe that an attractive acquisition target would most likely be a lifestyle brand that has a strong emotional connection with its consumer and has a disciplined distribution model consisting of wholesale customers with limited discounting and/or a direct to consumer distribution model via e-commerce or full-price retail stores. Further, while our existing businesses are primarily apparel brands, we could also be interested in a company with a more significant concentration in accessories, footwear or other product categories. The acquisition of a premier lifestyle brand is a meticulous process as such a brand is not available very often, and we most likely would have stiff competition from both strategic and private equity firms.
Operating Groups
Our business is primarily operated through our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Lanier Apparel and Southern Tide operating groups. We identify our operating groups based on the way our management organizes the components of our business for purposes of allocating resources and assessing performance. Our operating group structure reflects a brand-focused management approach, emphasizing operational coordination and resource allocation across each brand's direct to consumer, wholesale and licensing operations, as applicable.
Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide each design, source, market and distribute apparel and related products bearing their respective trademarks and also license their trademarks for other product categories, while Lanier Apparel designs, sources and distributes branded and private label men's tailored clothing, sportswear and other products. Corporate and Other is a reconciling category for reporting purposes and includes our corporate offices, substantially all financing activities, elimination of inter-segment sales, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments, other costs that are not allocated to the operating groups and operations of our other businesses which are not included in our operating groups, including our Lyons, Georgia distribution center operations. Our LIFO inventory pool does not correspond to our operating group definitions; therefore, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments are not allocated to our operating groups.
For additional information about each of our operating groups, see Part II, Item 7. Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations, and Note 2 to our consolidated financial statements, each included in this report. The table below presents net sales and operating information about our operating groups (in thousands). |
| | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 |
Net Sales | | |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 658,911 |
| $ | 658,467 |
|
Lilly Pulitzer | 233,294 |
| 204,626 |
|
Lanier Apparel | 100,753 |
| 105,106 |
|
Southern Tide | 27,432 |
| — |
|
Corporate and Other | 2,198 |
| 1,091 |
|
Total | $ | 1,022,588 |
| $ | 969,290 |
|
Operating Income (Loss) | | |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 44,101 |
| $ | 65,993 |
|
Lilly Pulitzer | 51,995 |
| 42,525 |
|
Lanier Apparel | 6,955 |
| 7,700 |
|
Southern Tide | (282 | ) | — |
|
Corporate and Other (1) | (12,885 | ) | (18,704 | ) |
Total operating income | $ | 89,884 |
| $ | 97,514 |
|
| |
(1) | The Fiscal 2016 and Fiscal 2015 operating loss for Corporate and Other included a LIFO accounting credit of $5.9 million and a LIFO accounting charge of $0.3 million, respectively. |
The table below presents the total assets of each of our operating groups (in thousands). |
| | | | | | |
| January 28, 2017 | January 30, 2016 |
Assets | | |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 451,990 |
| $ | 458,234 |
|
Lilly Pulitzer | 126,506 |
| 115,419 |
|
Lanier Apparel | 30,269 |
| 35,451 |
|
Southern Tide | 96,208 |
| — |
|
Corporate and Other | (19,814 | ) | (26,414 | ) |
Total | $ | 685,159 |
| $ | 582,690 |
|
Total assets for Corporate and Other include LIFO reserves of $58.0 million and $59.4 million as of January 28, 2017 and January 30, 2016, respectively.
Tommy Bahama
Tommy Bahama designs, sources, markets and distributes men's and women's sportswear and related products. The target consumers of Tommy Bahama are primarily affluent men and women age 35 and older who embrace a relaxed and casual approach to daily living. Tommy Bahama products can be found in our Tommy Bahama stores and on our Tommy Bahama e-commerce website, tommybahama.com, as well as in better department stores and independent specialty stores throughout the United States. We also operate Tommy Bahama restaurants and license the Tommy Bahama name for various product categories. During Fiscal 2016, 95% of Tommy Bahama's sales were to customers within the United States, with the remaining sales in Canada, Australia and Asia.
We believe that the attraction of the Tommy Bahama brand to our consumers is a reflection of our efforts over many years of maintaining appropriate quality and design of our Tommy Bahama apparel, accessories and licensed products, limiting the distribution of Tommy Bahama products to a select tier of retailers, and effectively communicating the relaxed and casual Tommy Bahama lifestyle to consumers. We expect to continue to follow this approach for the brand in the future. We believe that the retail sales value of all Tommy Bahama branded products sold during Fiscal 2016, including our estimate of retail sales by our wholesale customers and other third party retailers, was approximately $1.2 billion.
We believe there is ample opportunity to expand the reach of the Tommy Bahama brand, while at the same time maintaining the select distribution that Tommy Bahama has historically maintained. We believe that in order to take advantage of opportunities for long-term growth, we must continue to invest in the Tommy Bahama brand. These investments include amounts associated with capital expenditures and ongoing expenses to enhance e-commerce and other technology capabilities; capital expenditures and pre-opening expenses of new stores and restaurants; the remodeling and relocation of existing stores and restaurants; and capital expenditures related to distribution and other facilities.
We believe there are opportunities for continued growth in the United States through direct to consumer expansion and wholesale channels of distribution. However, an important focus for us in Fiscal 2017 is advancing various initiatives to increase the profitability of the Tommy Bahama business. These initiatives generally focus on:
| |
• | Increasing gross margins through product cost reductions and selective price increases to combat the shift of a greater proportion of our sales to periods of our marketing events; |
| |
• | Reducing inventory purchases and more rapidly clearing excess inventory to reduce clearance losses, particularly on women's products which are often costly to liquidate; |
| |
• | Redefining our approach to inventory clearance by marking down certain products in our full-price retail stores during traditional end of season clearance periods for the apparel retail industry, by selling additional amounts for certain product categories to third party off-price retailers if necessary, and by improving the presentation and offer in our outlet stores to increase sales and gross margins of products sold on clearance; |
| |
• | Effectively managing controllable and discretionary operating expenses including employment costs; |
| |
• | Taking a more conservative approach to full-price retail store and outlet openings and renewals given the ongoing decline in consumer traffic and related challenges; and |
| |
• | Continuing our efforts to reduce Asia-Pacific losses, with a targeted Fiscal 2017 Asia-Pacific loss of approximately $5 million compared to $7 million in Fiscal 2016. |
In recent years we began expansion of the Tommy Bahama brand into international markets. These efforts included the acquisition of the assets and operations of the Tommy Bahama business from our former licensees in Australia in Fiscal 2012 and Canada in Fiscal 2013. The licensees in each of these countries had developed a certain level of brand awareness, but we determined that after considering the potential direct to consumer and wholesale growth opportunities in those countries, it was appropriate for us to re-acquire the rights to the operations. We also commenced operations in Asia by opening retail store locations in Asia beginning in Fiscal 2012. The operations in Asia thus far have generated operating losses as we developed a significant Hong Kong-based team and infrastructure to support a larger Asia retail operation. The roll-out of retail stores in Asia was at a modest pace as we attempted to focus on improving store operations in Asia. As a lifestyle brand, we continue to believe it is appropriate that in certain key markets we initially set the tone for the brand rather than engaging a partner. However, in the future, we may engage a local partner to accelerate growth in certain markets.
Consistent with the prior year, our near term focus in the Asia-Pacific region remains on our direct to consumer operations in Australia and Japan while at the same time further reducing our infrastructure costs in Hong Kong to better align with the footprint of our current Asia retail operations. During Fiscal 2015 and Fiscal 2016, we closed our retail stores in Macau and Singapore and outlet stores in Hong Kong and Japan, with only one store remaining in Hong Kong. These closures result in our Asia-Pacific retail operations primarily consisting of stores in Australia and Japan. By focusing on Australia and Japan we believe we can do a better job of increasing brand awareness and sales by focusing our marketing spend in a location where the consumer has a variety of options for purchasing Tommy Bahama product, including our own retail stores, our wholesale customers' stores and, in the case of Japan, an in-country Tommy Bahama website. While we believe there are long-term opportunities for our Tommy Bahama operations in the Asia-Pacific region, we believe that the operating losses associated with these operations will continue to put downward pressure on our operating margin in the near future until we have sufficient sales to leverage the operating costs or have identified partners for jurisdictions which are not profitable.
Design, Sourcing, Marketing and Distribution
Tommy Bahama products are designed by product specific teams who focus on the target consumer. The design process includes feedback from buyers, consumers and sales agents, along with market trend research. Our Tommy Bahama apparel products generally incorporate fabrics made of cotton, silk, linen, nylon, leather, tencel and other natural and man-made fibers, or blends of two or more of these materials.
We operate a buying office located in Hong Kong to manage the production and sourcing of the substantial majority of our Tommy Bahama products. During Fiscal 2016, we utilized approximately 250 suppliers to manufacture our Tommy Bahama products. In Fiscal 2016, 73% of Tommy Bahama's product purchases were from manufacturers in China. The largest 10 suppliers of Tommy Bahama products provided 43% of the products acquired during Fiscal 2016, with no individual supplier providing greater than 10%.
We believe that advertising and marketing are an integral part of the long-term strategy for the Tommy Bahama brand, and we therefore devote significant resources to advertising and marketing. While the advertising for Tommy Bahama promotes our products, the primary emphasis is on brand image and brand lifestyle. Tommy Bahama's advertising attempts to engage individuals within the brand's consumer demographic and guide them on a regular basis to our retail stores, e-commerce websites or wholesale customers' stores in search of our products. The marketing of the Tommy Bahama brand includes email, internet and social media advertising and traditional media such as catalogs, print and other correspondence with customers, as well as moving media and trade show initiatives. As a lifestyle brand, we believe that it is very important that Tommy Bahama communicate regularly with consumers via the use of email, internet and social media about product offerings or other brand events in order to maintain and strengthen Tommy Bahama's connections with its consumers.
We also believe that highly visible full-price retail store locations with creative design, broad merchandise selection and brand appropriate visual presentation are key enticements for customers to visit our full-price retail stores and buy merchandise. We intend that our full-price retail stores enhance the shopping experience of our customers, which we believe will increase consumer brand loyalty. Marketing initiatives at our full-price retail stores may include special event promotions and a variety of public relations activities designed to create awareness of our products.
In addition, we utilize loyalty award cards, Flip-Side events and Friends & Family events to drive traffic to our stores and websites. These initiatives are effective in increasing traffic as the proportion of our sales that occur during our marketing initiatives have increased in recent years. We believe our traditional and electronic media communications increase the sales of our own full-price retail stores and e-commerce operations, as well as the sales of our products for our wholesale customers.
For certain of our wholesale customers, we also provide point-of-sale materials and signage to enhance the presentation of our products at their retail locations and/or participate in cooperative advertising programs.
We operate a Tommy Bahama distribution center in Auburn, Washington, which serves our North America direct to consumer and wholesale operations. Activities at the distribution center include receiving finished goods from suppliers,
inspecting the products and shipping the products to our Tommy Bahama stores, our wholesale customers and our e-commerce customers. We seek to maintain sufficient levels of Tommy Bahama inventory at the distribution center to support our direct to consumer operations, as well as pre-booked orders and some limited replenishment ordering for our wholesale customers. We use local third party distribution centers for our Asia-Pacific operations.
Direct to Consumer Operations
A key component of our Tommy Bahama growth strategy is to operate our own stores and e-commerce websites, which we believe permits us to develop and build brand awareness by presenting our products in a setting specifically designed to showcase the aspirational lifestyle on which the products are based. Our Tommy Bahama direct to consumer channels, which consist of retail store, e-commerce and restaurant operations, in the aggregate, represented 77% of Tommy Bahama's net sales in Fiscal 2016. We expect the percentage of our Tommy Bahama sales which are direct to consumer sales will increase slightly in future years as we anticipate that the direct to consumer distribution channel will grow at a faster pace than the wholesale distribution channel. Retail store, e-commerce and restaurant net sales accounted for 50%, 16% and 11%, respectively, of Tommy Bahama's net sales in Fiscal 2016.
Our direct to consumer strategy for the Tommy Bahama brand includes locating and operating full-price retail stores in upscale malls, lifestyle shopping centers, resort destinations and brand-appropriate street locations. Generally, we seek shopping areas and malls with high-profile or upscale consumer brands for our full-price retail stores. As of January 28, 2017, the majority of our Tommy Bahama full-price retail stores were in street-front locations or lifestyle centers with the remainder primarily in regional indoor malls. Our full-price retail stores allow us the opportunity to carry a full line of current season merchandise, including apparel, home products and accessories, all presented in an aspirational, island-inspired atmosphere designed to be relaxed, comfortable and unique. We believe that the Tommy Bahama full-price retail stores provide high visibility for the brand and products, and allow us to stay close to the preferences of our consumers. Further, we believe that our presentation of products and our strategy to operate the full-price retail stores with limited in-store promotional activities are good for the Tommy Bahama brand and, in turn, enhance business with our wholesale customers. Generally, we believe there are opportunities for full-price retail stores in both warmer and colder climates, as we believe the more important consideration is whether the location attracts the affluent consumer that we are targeting.
Disposal of discontinued or end of season inventory is an ongoing part of any apparel business and historically Tommy Bahama has utilized its outlet stores, supplemented by e-commerce flash clearance sales and sales to off-price retailers, to sell any excess inventory. Our Tommy Bahama outlet stores, which generated 10% of our total Tommy Bahama net sales in Fiscal 2016, are generally located in outlet shopping centers that include upscale retailers and serve an important role in overall inventory management by allowing us to sell discontinued and out-of-season products at better prices than are otherwise available from outside parties. We believe that this approach has helped us protect the integrity of the Tommy Bahama brand by allowing our full-price retail stores to limit promotional activity and controlling the distribution of discontinued and out-of-season product. To supplement the clearance items sold in Tommy Bahama outlets, approximately 20% of the product sold in our Tommy Bahama outlets was made specifically for our outlets. At this time and based on our anticipated proportion of clearance versus made-for items in our outlet stores, we anticipate that we would generally operate one outlet for approximately every three full-price retail stores.
In an effort to improve the profitability of our end of season clearance strategy for our products, in January 2017, we initiated selected initial markdowns in our full-price retail stores and on-line for end of season product for our women's, home and other products. We expect to continue that strategy and also plan to dispose of more end of season inventory for women's, home and other product categories through off-price retailers in the future than we have historically. These changes are expected to reduce the quantity of end of season product for those product categories that are transferred to our outlets in the future. We believe that reducing the amounts of these product categories, which were overrepresented in our outlets, will greatly improve the product offering and presentation in our outlet stores, which may ultimately improve the sales and profitability of our outlet stores and the profitability of our end of season clearance sales.
For Tommy Bahama's domestic full-price retail stores and retail-restaurant locations operating for the full Fiscal 2016 year, sales per gross square foot, excluding restaurant sales and restaurant space, were approximately $605 during Fiscal 2016, compared to $655 for stores operating for the full Fiscal 2015 year. The decrease in sales per square foot was primarily due to the negative comparable full-price retail store sales during Fiscal 2016. In Fiscal 2016, our domestic outlet stores generated approximately $355 of sales per square foot for outlets open for the entire 2016 fiscal year.
As of January 28, 2017 we operated 17 restaurants or Marlin Bar locations, generally adjacent to a Tommy Bahama full-price retail store location, which together we often refer to as islands. These retail-restaurant locations provide us with the opportunity to immerse customers in the ultimate Tommy Bahama experience. We do not anticipate that many of our retail locations will have an adjacent restaurant; however, in select high-profile, brand appropriate locations, such as Naples, Florida, Waikiki, Hawaii, and New York City, we have determined that an adjacent restaurant can further enhance the image of the
brand. The net sales per square foot in our domestic full-price retail stores which are adjacent to a restaurant are on average two times the sales per square foot of our other domestic full-price retail stores. We believe that the experience of a meal or drink in a Tommy Bahama restaurant may entice the customer to purchase additional Tommy Bahama merchandise and potentially provide a memorable consumer experience that further enhances the relationship between Tommy Bahama and the consumer. During the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2016, we opened our first Marlin Bar concept location in Coconut Point, Florida. The Marlin Bar concept, like our traditional restaurant, is adjacent to one of our retail locations and serves food and beverages, but in a smaller space and with food options more focused on small plate offerings rather than entrees. The initial results of the Marlin Bar, in both the restaurant and full-price retail store of the location, have been well received and have exceeded our expectations. We believe that with the smaller footprint, reduced labor requirements and lower required capital expenditure for build-out, the Marlin Bar concept provides us the long-term potential for opening retail-restaurant locations in sites that otherwise may not have been suitable or brand appropriate for one of our traditional retail-restaurant locations.
As of January 28, 2017, the total square feet of space utilized for our Tommy Bahama full-price retail store and outlet store operations was 0.6 million with another 0.1 million of total square feet utilized in our Tommy Bahama restaurant operations. The table below provides certain information regarding Tommy Bahama retail stores operated by us as of January 28, 2017. |
| | | | | | | | |
| Full-Price Retail Stores | Outlet Stores | Retail-Restaurant Locations (1) | Total |
Florida | 20 |
| 4 |
| 6 |
| 30 |
|
California | 15 |
| 5 |
| 3 |
| 23 |
|
Texas | 7 |
| 4 |
| 1 |
| 12 |
|
Hawaii | 4 |
| 1 |
| 3 |
| 8 |
|
Nevada | 4 |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| 6 |
|
Maryland | 3 |
| 2 |
| — |
| 5 |
|
New York | 2 |
| 2 |
| 1 |
| 5 |
|
Other states | 38 |
| 16 |
| 1 |
| 55 |
|
Total domestic | 93 |
| 35 |
| 16 |
| 144 |
|
Canada | 8 |
| 3 |
| — |
| 11 |
|
Total North America | 101 |
| 38 |
| 16 |
| 155 |
|
Australia | 8 |
| 2 |
| — |
| 10 |
|
Japan | 1 |
| — |
| 1 |
| 2 |
|
Other international | 1 |
| — |
| — |
| 1 |
|
Total | 111 |
| 40 |
| 17 |
| 168 |
|
Average square feet per store (2) | 3,400 |
| 4,600 |
| 4,300 |
| |
|
Total square feet at year end | 380,000 |
| 185,000 |
| 75,000 |
| |
|
| |
(1) | Consists of 16 retail-restaurant locations of our traditional island format and one Marlin Bar retail-restaurant concept. |
| |
(2) | Average square feet for retail-restaurant locations consists of average retail space and excludes space used in the associated restaurant operations. |
The table below reflects the changes in store count for Tommy Bahama stores during Fiscal 2016. |
| | | | | | | | |
| Full-Price Retail Stores | Outlet Stores | Retail-Restaurant Locations | Total |
Open as of beginning of fiscal year | 107 |
| 41 |
| 16 |
| 164 |
|
Opened | 8 |
| — |
| — |
| 8 |
|
Closed | (3 | ) | (1 | ) | — |
| (4 | ) |
Retail store relocated/converted to Marlin Bar | (1 | ) | — |
| 1 |
| — |
|
Open as of end of fiscal year | 111 |
| 40 |
| 17 |
| 168 |
|
During Fiscal 2017, we anticipate that the number of stores will remain comparable to our store count at the end of Fiscal 2016. Although we expect to open a handful of full-price retail stores during the year, including full-price retail stores in Delray Beach, Florida and Napa, California as well as a retail-restaurant location at Legacy West in Dallas, Texas, we also expect to opportunistically close certain under-performing locations through lease expirations during the year. In future years, we do not
anticipate as many closures as we expect in Fiscal 2017. Therefore, in future years, we anticipate that we will increase the number of our retail locations, but most likely at a more modest pace than our historical trend.
The operation of full-price retail stores, outlet stores and retail-restaurant locations requires a greater amount of initial capital investment than wholesale operations, as well as greater ongoing operating costs. We estimate that we will spend approximately $1.3 million on average in connection with the build-out of a domestic full-price retail store. However, individual locations, particularly those in urban locations, may require investments greater than these amounts depending on a variety of factors, including the location and size of the full-price retail store. The cost of a traditional Tommy Bahama retail-restaurant location and a Marlin Bar is significantly more than the cost of a full-price retail store and can vary significantly depending on a variety of factors. Historically, the cost of our retail-restaurant locations has been approximately $5 million; however, we have spent significantly more than that amount for certain locations, including New York City and Waikiki. For most of our retail stores and restaurants, the landlord provides certain incentives to fund a portion of our capital expenditures.
We also incur capital expenditures when a lease expires and we determine it is appropriate to relocate to a new location in the same vicinity as the previous store. The cost of store relocations is generally comparable to the costs of opening a new full-price retail store or outlet store. Additionally, we incur capital expenditure costs related to periodic remodels of existing stores, particularly when we renew or extend a lease beyond the original lease term, or otherwise determine that a remodel of a store is appropriate. When a lease expires we may decide to close the store rather than relocating the store to another location or renewing the lease. As we reach the expirations of more of our lease agreements in the near future, we anticipate that the capital expenditures for relocations and remodels, in the aggregate, may continue to increase in future periods.
In addition to our full-price retail stores and outlet stores, our direct to consumer approach includes various e-commerce websites, including the tommybahama.com website. During Fiscal 2016, e-commerce sales represented 16% of Tommy Bahama's net sales. Our Tommy Bahama websites allow consumers to buy Tommy Bahama products directly from us via the internet. These websites also enable us to increase our database of consumer contacts, which allows us to communicate directly and frequently with consenting consumers. As we reach more customers in the future, we anticipate that our e-commerce distribution channel for Tommy Bahama will continue to grow at a faster pace than our domestic full-price retail store operations or wholesale operations. In Fiscal 2016, we held a select number of e-commerce flash clearance sales as a means of complementing our outlets in liquidating discontinued or out-of-season inventory. These sales represented 10% of Tommy Bahama e-commerce sales in Fiscal 2016.
Wholesale Operations
To complement our direct to consumer operations and have access to a larger group of consumers, we continue to maintain our wholesale operations for Tommy Bahama. Tommy Bahama's wholesale customers consist of sales to better department stores and specialty stores that generally follow a retail model approach with limited discounting. We value our long-standing relationships with our wholesale customers and are committed to working with them to enhance the success of the Tommy Bahama brand within their stores.
Wholesale sales for Tommy Bahama accounted for 23% of Tommy Bahama's net sales in Fiscal 2016. Approximately two-thirds of Tommy Bahama's wholesale business reflects sales to major department stores with the remaining wholesale sales primarily sales to specialty stores. Tommy Bahama men's products are available in more than 2,000 North America retail locations, while Tommy Bahama women's products are available in more than 1,000 North America retail locations. During Fiscal 2016, 18% of Tommy Bahama's net sales were to Tommy Bahama's ten largest wholesale customers, with its largest customer representing 6% of Tommy Bahama's net sales.
At the same time, we believe that the integrity and continued success of the Tommy Bahama brand, including its direct to consumer operations, is dependent, in part, upon controlled wholesale distribution, with careful selection of the retailers through which Tommy Bahama products are sold. As a result of our approach to limiting our wholesale customers, we believe that sales growth in our men's apparel wholesale business, which represented approximately 88% of Tommy Bahama's domestic wholesale sales in Fiscal 2016, may be somewhat limited. However, we believe that we have opportunities for wholesale sales increases for our Tommy Bahama women's business, with its appeal evidenced by women's product representing 28% of sales in our full-price retail stores and e-commerce websites. Overall, we anticipate that the Tommy Bahama wholesale business will grow at a slower rate than the direct to consumer distribution channel.
We maintain Tommy Bahama apparel sales offices and showrooms in New York and Seattle, as well as other locations, to facilitate sales to our wholesale customers. Our Tommy Bahama wholesale operations utilize a sales force consisting of a combination of independent commissioned sales representatives and Tommy Bahama employees.
Licensing Operations
We believe licensing is an attractive business opportunity for the Tommy Bahama brand. For an established lifestyle brand, licensing typically requires modest additional investment but can yield high-margin income. It also affords the opportunity to enhance overall brand awareness and exposure. In evaluating a licensee for Tommy Bahama, we typically consider the candidate's experience, financial stability, sourcing expertise and marketing ability. We also evaluate the marketability and compatibility of the proposed licensed products with other Tommy Bahama products.
Our agreements with Tommy Bahama licensees are for specific geographic areas and expire at various dates in the future, and in limited cases include contingent renewal options. Generally, the agreements require minimum royalty payments as well as additional royalty payments and, in most cases, advertising payments and/or obligations to expend certain funds towards marketing the brand on an approved basis. Our license agreements generally provide us the right to approve all products, advertising and proposed channels of distribution. Third party license arrangements for our Tommy Bahama products include the following product categories: |
| | |
Men's and women's headwear | Watches | Outdoor furniture and related products |
Outerwear | Belts, leather goods and gifts | Indoor furniture |
Footwear | Handbags | Mattresses and box springs |
Men's socks | Luggage | Bedding and bath linens |
Sleepwear | Rugs | Table top accessories |
Shampoo, soap and bath amenities | Fragrances | Fabrics |
In addition to our licenses for the specific product categories listed above, we may enter into certain international distributor agreements which allow those parties to distribute Tommy Bahama apparel and other products on a wholesale and/or retail basis within certain countries or regions. As of January 28, 2017, we have agreements for distribution of Tommy Bahama products in the Middle East, Greater China and parts of Central and South America. Substantially all of the products sold by the distributors are identical to the products sold in our own Tommy Bahama stores. In addition to selling Tommy Bahama goods to wholesale accounts, the distributors may, in some cases, operate their own retail stores. None of these agreements are expected to impact the operating results of Tommy Bahama in the near term in a meaningful manner.
Seasonal Aspects of Business
Tommy Bahama's operating results are impacted by seasonality as the demand by specific product or style, as well as by distribution channel, may vary significantly depending on the time of year. As the timing of certain unusual or non-recurring items, economic conditions, wholesale product shipments or other factors affecting the business may vary from one year to the next, we do not believe that net sales or operating income (loss) for any particular quarter or the distribution of net sales and operating income (loss) for Fiscal 2016 are necessarily indicative of anticipated results for the full fiscal year or expected distribution in future years. The timing of Tommy Bahama's sales in the direct to consumer and wholesale distribution channels generally varies. Typically, the demand in the direct to consumer operations, including sales at our own stores and e-commerce site, for Tommy Bahama products in our principal markets is generally higher in the spring, summer and holiday seasons and lower in the fall season. However, wholesale product shipments are generally shipped prior to each of the retail selling seasons. The following table presents the percentage of net sales and operating income (loss) for Tommy Bahama by quarter for Fiscal 2016:
|
| | | | | | | | |
| First Quarter | Second Quarter | Third Quarter | Fourth Quarter |
Net sales | 25 | % | 28 | % | 19 | % | 28 | % |
Operating income (loss) | 30 | % | 47 | % | (16 | )% | 39 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer
Lilly Pulitzer designs, sources, markets and distributes upscale collections of women's and girl's dresses, sportswear and related products. The Lilly Pulitzer brand was originally created in the late 1950s by Lilly Pulitzer and is an affluent brand with a heritage and aesthetic based on the Palm Beach resort lifestyle. The brand is somewhat unique among women's brands in that it has demonstrated multi-generational appeal, including young women in college or recently graduated from college; young mothers with their daughters; and women who are not tied to the academic calendar. Lilly Pulitzer products can be found in our owned Lilly Pulitzer stores, in Lilly Pulitzer Signature Stores, which are described below, and on our Lilly Pulitzer website, lillypulitzer.com, as well as in better department and independent specialty stores. During Fiscal 2016, 46% and 38% of Lilly Pulitzer's net sales were for women's sportswear and dresses, respectively, with the remaining sales consisting of Lilly Pulitzer accessories, including scarves, bags, jewelry and belts; children's apparel; footwear; and licensed products.
We believe that there is significant opportunity to expand the reach of the Lilly Pulitzer brand, while at the same time maintaining the exclusive distribution that Lilly Pulitzer has historically maintained. We believe that in order to take advantage of opportunities for long-term growth, we must continue to invest in the Lilly Pulitzer brand. These investments include costs to enhance e-commerce and other technology capabilities; opening and operating full-price retail stores; the remodeling and relocation of existing stores; and an increase in employment, advertising and other costs to support a growing business. While we believe that these investments will generate long-term benefits, the investments may have a short-term negative impact on Lilly Pulitzer's operating margin.
We believe the attraction of the Lilly Pulitzer brand to our consumers is a reflection of years of maintaining appropriate quality and design of the Lilly Pulitzer apparel, accessories and licensed products, restricting the distribution of the Lilly Pulitzer products to a select tier of retailers and effectively communicating the message of Lilly Pulitzer's optimistic Palm Beach resort chic lifestyle. We believe this approach to quality, design, distribution and communication has been critical in allowing us to achieve the current retail price points for Lilly Pulitzer products. We believe that the retail sales value of all Lilly Pulitzer branded products sold during Fiscal 2016, including our estimate of retail sales by our wholesale customers and other third party retailers, exceeded $300 million.
Design, Sourcing, Marketing and Distribution
Lilly Pulitzer's products are developed by our dedicated design teams located at the Lilly Pulitzer headquarters in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania as well as in Palm Beach, Florida. Our Lilly Pulitzer design teams focus on the target consumer, and the design process combines feedback from buyers, consumers and our sales force, along with market trend research. Lilly Pulitzer apparel products are designed to incorporate various fiber types, including cotton, silk, linen and other natural and man-made fibers, or blends of two or more of these materials.
Lilly Pulitzer uses a combination of in-house employees in our King of Prussia and Hong Kong offices and third party buying agents primarily based in Asia to manage the production and sourcing of the Lilly Pulitzer apparel products. Through its buying agents and direct sourcing, Lilly Pulitzer used approximately 50 vendors, with the largest individual supplier providing 10%, and the largest 10 suppliers providing 59%, of the Lilly Pulitzer products acquired during Fiscal 2016. In Fiscal 2016, 56% of Lilly Pulitzer's product purchases were from manufacturers located in China.
We believe that advertising and marketing are an integral part of the long-term strategy of the Lilly Pulitzer brand, and we therefore devote significant resources to advertising and marketing. Lilly Pulitzer's advertising attempts to engage individuals within the brand's consumer demographic and guide them on a regular basis to our full-price retail stores, e-commerce websites and wholesale customers' stores in search of our products. The marketing of the Lilly Pulitzer brand includes email, internet and social media advertising as well as traditional media such as catalogs, print and other correspondence with customers and moving media and trade show initiatives. We believe that it is very important that a lifestyle brand effectively communicate with consumers on a regular basis via the use of electronic media and print correspondence about product offerings or other brand events in order to maintain and strengthen the brand's connections with consumers.
In addition to our ongoing Lilly Pulitzer marketing initiatives, on occasion we also enter into collaborations with others, including airlines and other retailers, to increase brand awareness or create additional brand excitement. Often these collaborations do not generate direct revenue for Lilly Pulitzer, but instead provide significant press or social media exposure and excitement for the brand that complement our ongoing advertising and marketing initiatives. We believe in today's environment it is important to continue to find new, creative ways to advertise and market in ways that differentiate the brand.
We believe that highly visible full-price retail store locations with creative design, broad merchandise selection and brand appropriate visual presentation are key enticements for customers to visit our full-price retail stores and buy merchandise. We believe that our full-price retail stores enhance the shopping experience of our customers, which will increase consumer brand loyalty. Marketing initiatives at certain of our full-price retail stores may include special event promotions and a variety of public relations activities designed to create awareness of our stores and products. At certain times during the year, an integral part of the marketing plan for Lilly Pulitzer includes certain gift with purchase programs where the consumer earns the right to a Lilly Pulitzer gift product if certain spending thresholds are achieved. We believe that our full-price retail store operations, as well as our traditional and electronic media communications and periodic collaborations with others, enhance brand awareness and increase the sales of Lilly Pulitzer products in all channels of distribution.
For certain of our wholesale customers, we also provide point-of-sale materials and signage to enhance the presentation of our branded products at their retail locations and/or participate in cooperative advertising programs.
Lilly Pulitzer operates a distribution center in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania. Activities at the distribution center include receiving finished goods from suppliers, inspecting the products and shipping the products to wholesale customers, Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores and our e-commerce customers. We seek to maintain sufficient levels of inventory at the
distribution center to support our direct to consumer operations, as well as pre-booked orders and some limited replenishment ordering for our wholesale customers.
Direct to Consumer Operations
A key component of our Lilly Pulitzer growth strategy is to operate our own stores and e-commerce website, which we believe permits us to develop and build brand awareness by presenting products in a setting specifically designed to showcase the aspirational lifestyle on which they are based. The distribution channels included in Lilly Pulitzer's direct to consumer strategy consist of full-price retail store and e-commerce operations and represented 68% of Lilly Pulitzer's net sales in both Fiscal 2016 and Fiscal 2015. We expect the percentage of our Lilly Pulitzer sales which are direct to consumer sales will increase in future years as we anticipate that the retail and e-commerce components of the Lilly Pulitzer business will grow at a faster rate than the wholesale distribution channel.
Our direct to consumer strategy for the Lilly Pulitzer brand includes operating full-price retail stores in higher-end malls, lifestyle shopping centers, resort destinations and brand-appropriate street locations. Sales at our full-price retail stores represented 36% of Lilly Pulitzer's net sales during Fiscal 2016. As of January 28, 2017, less than one-half of the Lilly Pulitzer stores were located in indoor regional malls, slightly more than one-third of the Lilly Pulitzer stores were located in outdoor regional lifestyle centers and the remaining locations were primarily street locations. Each full-price retail store carries a wide range of merchandise, including apparel, footwear and accessories, all presented in a manner intended to enhance the Lilly Pulitzer image, brand awareness and acceptance. Our Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores allow us to present Lilly Pulitzer's full line of current season products. We believe our Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores provide high visibility for the brand and products and also enable us to stay close to the needs and preferences of consumers. We also believe that our presentation of products and our strategy to operate the full-price retail stores with limited promotional activities complement our business with our wholesale customers. Generally, we believe there are opportunities for full-price retail stores in both warmer and colder climates, as we believe the more important consideration is whether the location attracts the affluent consumer that we are targeting.
Lilly Pulitzer's full-price retail store sales per gross square foot for Fiscal 2016 were approximately $840 for the full-price retail stores which were open the full Fiscal 2016 year compared to approximately $835 for the Lilly Pulitzer stores open for the full Fiscal 2015 year. The increase in sales per gross square foot from the prior year was primarily due to the favorable impact of the Fiscal 2016 closure of one store which offset a 1% decrease in sales in full-price retail stores that were determined to be comparable stores for Fiscal 2016. The table below provides certain information regarding Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores as of January 28, 2017. |
| | |
| Number of Full-Price Retail Stores |
Florida | 14 |
|
Texas | 4 |
|
Other | 22 |
|
Total | 40 |
|
Average square feet per store | 2,700 |
|
Total square feet at year-end | 110,000 |
|
The table below reflects the changes in store count for Lilly Pulitzer stores during Fiscal 2016. |
| | |
| Full-Price Retail Stores |
Open as of beginning of fiscal year | 34 |
|
Opened | 7 |
|
Closed | (1 | ) |
Open as of end of fiscal year | 40 |
|
In Fiscal 2017, we expect to open six full-price retail stores, including stores in St. Louis, Missouri, Raleigh, North Carolina, Columbus, Ohio, and Watch Hill, Rhode Island. Subsequent to Fiscal 2017, we expect to open four to six full-price retail stores each year in the near future. The operation of full-price retail stores requires a greater amount of initial capital investment than wholesale operations, as well as greater ongoing operating costs. We anticipate that most future full-price retail store openings will generally be 2,500 square feet on average; however, many stores will be larger or smaller than 2,500 square feet with the determination of size of the store depending on a variety of criteria. To open a 2,500 square foot Lilly Pulitzer full-
price retail store, we anticipate capital expenditures of approximately $0.8 million on average. For most of our full-price retail stores, the landlord provides certain incentives to fund a portion of our capital expenditures.
In addition to new store openings, we also incur capital expenditure costs related to remodels, expansions or downsizing of existing stores, particularly when we renew or extend a lease beyond the original lease term, or otherwise determine that a remodel of a store is appropriate. We may also incur capital expenditures if we determine it is appropriate to relocate a store to a new location. The cost of store relocations, if any, will generally be comparable to the cost of opening a new store. Alternatively, when a lease expires we may decide to close the store rather than relocating the store to another location or renewing the lease. As an example, in Fiscal 2016, we closed our East Hampton, New York store at the expiration of the lease agreement.
In addition to operating Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores, another key element of our direct to consumer strategy is the lillypulitzer.com website, which represented 32% of Lilly Pulitzer's net sales in Fiscal 2016 compared to 30% in Fiscal 2015. The Lilly Pulitzer e-commerce business has experienced significant growth in recent years, and we anticipate that the rate of growth of the e-commerce business will remain strong in the future.
We also utilize the Lilly Pulitzer website as an effective means of liquidating discontinued or out-of-season inventory in a brand appropriate manner. Usually, we have two e-commerce flash clearance sales per year, both of which are in typical industry end-of-season promotional periods. These sales are brand appropriate events that create a significant amount of excitement with loyal Lilly Pulitzer consumers, who are looking for an opportunity to purchase Lilly Pulitzer products at a discounted price. Each of these two e-commerce flash clearance sales are for a very limited number of days, allowing the Lilly Pulitzer website to remain full-price for the remainder of the year. During Fiscal 2016, approximately 39% of Lilly Pulitzer's e-commerce sales were e-commerce flash clearance sales.
Wholesale Operations
To complement our direct to consumer operations and have access to a larger group of consumers, including those who may wish to shop at a specialty store or department store, we continue to maintain our wholesale operations for Lilly Pulitzer. These wholesale operations are with better department stores and independent specialty stores that generally follow a retail model approach with limited discounting. During Fiscal 2016, approximately 32% of Lilly Pulitzer's net sales were sales to wholesale customers. During Fiscal 2016, 40% of Lilly Pulitzer's wholesale sales were to Lilly Pulitzer's Signature Stores, as described below, while approximately one-third of Lilly Pulitzer's wholesale sales were to department stores. Lilly Pulitzer's net sales to its ten largest wholesale customers represented 17% of Lilly Pulitzer's net sales in Fiscal 2016 with its largest customer representing 5% of Lilly Pulitzer's net sales.
An important part of Lilly Pulitzer's wholesale distribution is sales to Signature Stores. For these stores, we enter into agreements whereby we grant the other party the right to independently operate one or more stores as a Lilly Pulitzer Signature Store, subject to certain conditions, including designating substantially all the store specifically for Lilly Pulitzer products and adhering to certain trademark usage requirements. These agreements are generally for a two-year period. We sell products to these Lilly Pulitzer Signature Stores on a wholesale basis and do not receive royalty income associated with these sales. As of January 28, 2017, there were 67 Lilly Pulitzer Signature Stores.
Although we do not expect that the Lilly Pulitzer wholesale business will grow at the same pace as the direct to consumer distribution channel, we value our long-standing relationships with our wholesale customers and are committed to working with them to enhance the success of the Lilly Pulitzer brand within their stores. We believe that the integrity and continued success of the Lilly Pulitzer brand, including its direct to consumer operations, is dependent, in part, upon controlled wholesale distribution with careful selection of the retailers through which Lilly Pulitzer products are sold. Lilly Pulitzer apparel products are available in more than 250 locations of our wholesale customers.
We maintain Lilly Pulitzer apparel sales offices and showrooms in Palm Beach, Florida, King of Prussia, Pennsylvania and New York City. Our wholesale operations for Lilly Pulitzer utilize a sales force consisting of salaried sales employees.
Licensing Operations
We license the Lilly Pulitzer trademark to licensees in categories beyond Lilly Pulitzer's core product categories. In the long term, we believe licensing may be an attractive business opportunity for the Lilly Pulitzer brand, particularly once our direct to consumer presence has expanded. Once a brand is established, licensing requires modest additional investment but can yield high-margin income. It also affords the opportunity to enhance overall brand awareness and exposure. In evaluating a potential Lilly Pulitzer licensee, we consider the candidate's experience, financial stability, manufacturing performance and marketing ability. We also evaluate the marketability and compatibility of the proposed products with other Lilly Pulitzer brand products.
Our agreements with Lilly Pulitzer licensees are for specific geographic areas and expire at various dates in the future. Generally, the agreements require minimum royalty payments as well as royalty and advertising payments based on specified percentages of the licensee's net sales of the licensed products. Our license agreements generally provide us the right to approve all products, advertising and proposed channels of distribution.
Third party license arrangements for Lilly Pulitzer products include the following product categories: stationery and gift products; home furnishing fabrics; and eyewear.
Seasonal Aspects of Business
Lilly Pulitzer's operating results are impacted by seasonality as the demand by specific product or style as well as demand by distribution channel may vary significantly depending on the time of year. Typically, the demand in the direct to consumer operations, including sales for our own stores and e-commerce sites, for Lilly Pulitzer products in our principal markets is generally higher in the spring, summer and resort seasons and lower in the fall season. However, wholesale product shipments are generally shipped prior to each of the retail selling seasons. Further, in the third and fourth quarters of our fiscal year, which have not historically been strong direct to consumer or wholesale quarters for Lilly Pulitzer, Lilly Pulitzer has held significant e-commerce flash clearance sales which partially offsets the impact of seasonality on Lilly Pulitzer's sales. As the timing of certain unusual or non-recurring items, economic conditions, wholesale product shipments, the magnitude of e-commerce flash clearance sales or other factors affecting the business may vary from one year to the next, we do not believe that net sales or operating income for any particular quarter or the distribution of net sales for Fiscal 2016 are necessarily indicative of anticipated results for the full fiscal year or expected distribution in future years. The following table presents the percentage of net sales and operating income for Lilly Pulitzer by quarter for Fiscal 2016:
|
| | | | | | | | |
| First Quarter | Second Quarter | Third Quarter | Fourth Quarter |
Net sales | 28 | % | 30 | % | 22 | % | 20 | % |
Operating income | 40 | % | 44 | % | 12 | % | 4 | % |
Lanier Apparel
Lanier Apparel designs, sources and distributes branded and private label men's apparel, including tailored clothing, casual pants and sportswear, across a wide range of price points, but primarily at moderate price points. The majority of our Lanier Apparel products are sold under certain trademarks licensed to us by third parties. Lanier Apparel's licensed brands for certain product categories include Kenneth Cole®, Dockers®, Geoffrey Beene®, Nick Graham® and Andrew Fezza®. Additionally, we design and market products for our owned Billy London®, Oxford® (formerly Oxford Golf®), Duck Head® and Strong SuitTM brands. Both Duck Head and Strong Suit were acquired during Fiscal 2016. Sales of branded products licensed to us or owned by us represented 75% of Lanier Apparel's net sales during Fiscal 2016.
In addition to these branded businesses, Lanier Apparel designs and sources private label apparel products for certain customers, including tailored clothing and pants programs for large department stores, warehouse clubs and other retailers. For our large retail customers, the private label programs offer the customer product exclusivity, generally at higher gross margins than they would achieve on branded products, while allowing us the opportunity to leverage our design, sourcing, production, logistics and distribution infrastructure. For other customers, we may perform any combination of design, sourcing, production, logistics or distribution services for a brand owner who will then distribute the product acquired from us through their wholesale or direct to consumer operations. In these cases, the brand owner may have determined it is more efficient to outsource certain functions, may be a smaller company that lacks such functional expertise or may want to focus their energies on the other aspects of their brand. Lanier Apparel, as an efficient operator that excels in sourcing, production, logistics, distribution and design, can increase its profitability by providing valuable services and resources to these smaller companies which may also allow the third party to operate their business in a more cost-effective manner than if the third party performed all the functions in-house.
Our Lanier Apparel products are primarily sold through large retailers including department stores, discount and off-price retailers, warehouse clubs, national chains, specialty retailers and others throughout the United States. Lanier Apparel's products are sold in more than 5,000 retail locations. In Lanier Apparel, we have long-standing relationships with some of the United States' largest retailers. During Fiscal 2016, Lanier Apparel's two largest customers represented 18% and 16%, respectively, of Lanier Apparel's net sales. Sales to Lanier Apparel's 10 largest customers represented 73% of Lanier Apparel's net sales during Fiscal 2016. The amount and percentage of net sales attributable to an individual customer in future years may be different than Fiscal 2016 as sales to wholesale customers are not tied to long-term contracts.
As much of Lanier Apparel's private label sales are program based, where Lanier Apparel must bid for a program on a case-by-case and season-by-season basis, an individual customer could increase, decrease or discontinue its purchases from us
at any time. Thus, significant fluctuations in Lanier Apparel's operating results from one year to the next may result, particularly if a program is not renewed, the customer decides to use another vendor, we determine that the return on the program is not acceptable to us, a new program is initiated, there is a significant increase in the volume of the program or otherwise. Additionally, in accordance with normal industry practice, as part of maintaining an ongoing relationship with certain customers, Lanier Apparel may be required to provide cooperative advertising or other incentives to the customer.
The moderate price point tailored clothing and sportswear markets are extremely competitive sectors, with significant retail competition as well as gross margin pressures due to retail sales price pressures and production cost increases. We believe that our Lanier Apparel business has historically excelled at bringing quality products to our customers at competitive prices and managing inventory risk appropriately while requiring minimal capital expenditure investments.
Design, Manufacturing, Sourcing, Marketing and Distribution
We believe that superior customer service and supply chain management, as well as the design of quality products, are all integral components of our strategy in the branded and private label tailored clothing and sportswear markets in which Lanier Apparel operates. Our Lanier Apparel design teams, which are primarily located in New York City and Atlanta, focus on the target consumer for each brand and product. The design process combines feedback from buyers and sales agents along with market trend research and input from manufacturers. Our various Lanier Apparel products are manufactured from a variety of fibers, including wool, silk, linen, cotton and other natural fibers, as well as synthetics and blends of these materials.
Lanier Apparel manages production in Asia and Latin America through a combination of efforts from our Lanier Apparel offices in Atlanta and Hong Kong as well as with third party buying agents. Lanier Apparel's sourcing operations are also supplemented, as appropriate, by third party contractors who may provide certain sourcing functions or in-country quality assurance to further enhance Lanier Apparel's global sourcing operations. During Fiscal 2016, 77% of Lanier Apparel's product purchases were from manufacturers located in Vietnam. Lanier Apparel purchased goods from approximately 150 suppliers in Fiscal 2016. The 10 largest suppliers of Lanier Apparel provided 85% of the finished goods and raw materials Lanier Apparel acquired from third parties during Fiscal 2016, with 31% of our product purchases acquired from Lanier Apparel's largest third party supplier. In addition to purchasing products from third parties, Lanier Apparel operates a manufacturing facility, located in Merida, Mexico, which produced 10% of our Lanier Apparel products during Fiscal 2016.
The advertising efforts of Lanier Apparel are much more product specific than advertising for our owned lifestyle brands. For Lanier Apparel's branded products, advertising primarily consists of cooperative advertising with our larger customers, contributions to the licensor based on a specified percentage of our net sales to fund the licensor's general brand advertising initiatives and attending brand appropriate trade shows. As a provider of private label apparel, we are generally not responsible for advertising for private label brands.
For Lanier Apparel, we utilize a distribution center located in Toccoa, Georgia, a distribution center in Lyons, Georgia and certain third party distribution centers for our product shipments, where we receive goods from our suppliers, inspect those products and ship the goods to our customers. We seek to maintain sufficient levels of inventory to support programs for pre-booked orders and to meet customer demand for at-once ordering. For certain standard product styles, we maintain in-stock replenishment programs, providing shipment to customers within just a few days of receiving the order. These types of programs generally require higher inventory levels. Lanier Apparel utilizes various off-price retailers to sell excess prior-season inventory.
We maintain apparel sales offices and showrooms for our Lanier Apparel products in several locations, including New York City and Atlanta and employ a sales force consisting of a combination of salaried employees and independent sales reps. Lanier Apparel operates a number of websites for certain of its businesses and also ships orders directly to consumers who purchase products from the websites of certain of its wholesale customers.
Seasonal Aspects of Business
Lanier Apparel's operating results are impacted by seasonality as the demand by specific product or style may vary significantly depending on the time of year. As a wholesale apparel business, in which product shipments generally occur prior to the retail selling seasons, the seasonality of Lanier Apparel generally reflects stronger spring and fall wholesale deliveries which typically occur in our first and third quarters; however, in some fiscal years this will not be the case due to much of Lanier Apparel's operations resulting from program-driven businesses. The timing of certain unusual or non-recurring items, economic conditions, wholesale product shipments, the introduction of new programs, the loss of programs or customers or other factors affecting the business may vary significantly from one year to the next. Therefore, we do not believe that net sales or operating income of Lanier Apparel for any particular quarter or the distribution of net sales and operating income for Fiscal 2016 are necessarily indicative of anticipated results for the full fiscal year or expected distribution in future years. The following table presents the percentage of net sales and operating income for Lanier Apparel by quarter for Fiscal 2016:
|
| | | | | | | | |
| First Quarter | Second Quarter | Third Quarter | Fourth Quarter |
Net sales | 27 | % | 19 | % | 35 | % | 19 | % |
Operating income | 41 | % | 1 | % | 53 | % | 5 | % |
Southern Tide
On April 19, 2016, we acquired Southern Tide, LLC, which owns the Southern Tide lifestyle apparel brand. Southern Tide designs, sources, markets and distributes high-quality apparel bearing the distinctive Skipjack logo. Southern Tide offers an extensive selection of men’s shirts, pants, shorts, outerwear, ties, swimwear, footwear and accessories, as well as women's and youth collections. Launched in 2006, Southern Tide combines the modern design elements of today's youthful trends with love for the Southern culture and lifestyle. The brand has an appeal to all ages who have an appreciation for classic design, vibrant colors, a great fit and an affection for the coast. Southern Tide products can be found in independent specialty retailers, better department stores, Southern Tide Signature Stores as described below, and on our Southern Tide website, southerntide.com. During the period from the acquisition date in April 2016 through the end of Fiscal 2016, 77% of Southern Tide's sales were wholesale sales and 23% of Southern Tide's sales were e-commerce sales.
Since the acquisition, we have emphasized the integration of the Southern Tide operations, as appropriate, into our infrastructure, including integrating Southern Tide into our existing corporate infrastructure for many back-office functions and services such as accounting, treasury, credit, human resources, information technology, insurance, product quality control, factory compliance and inbound/outbound logistics. Additionally, the inventory and distribution operations of Southern Tide were transferred from a third party distribution center to our Lyons, Georgia distribution center. Southern Tide has also began utilizing our Hong Kong-based sourcing operations for certain product categories starting in the Fall 2017 season. We believe that integrating these sourcing, distribution, administrative and back-office functions into our existing infrastructure allows the Southern Tide management team greater ability to focus on the consumer facing functions of the Southern Tide business, including design, sales and marketing, while also leveraging our existing expertise in certain areas, which we believe will allow for more efficient and effective operations for the Southern Tide business.
We believe that there is significant opportunity to expand the reach of the Southern Tide brand by increasing the specialty store, department store and Signature Store presence of the brand, as well as increasing e-commerce sales. However, this growth and expansion will be at a prudent pace as we believe that the integrity and success of the Southern Tide brand is dependent, in part, upon controlled wholesale distribution with careful selection of the retailers through which Southern Tide products are sold.
We believe that in order to take advantage of opportunities for long-term growth, we must continue to invest in the Southern Tide brand. In the near term, these investments will primarily consist of an increase in employment, advertising and other costs to support a growing wholesale business with specialty and department stores, increasing the number of Southern Tide Signature Stores and costs to enhance e-commerce and other technology capabilities. While we believe that these investments will generate long-term benefits, the investments may have a short-term negative impact on Southern Tide's operating margin given the current size of the Southern Tide business. We believe that the retail sales value of all Southern Tide branded products sold during the period from the acquisition date through the end of Fiscal 2016, including our estimate of retail sales by our wholesale customers and other third party retailers, exceeded $50 million.
Design, Sourcing, Marketing and Distribution
Southern Tide's products are developed by our dedicated design teams located at the Southern Tide headquarters in Greenville, South Carolina. Our Southern Tide design teams focus on the target consumer, and the design process combines feedback from buyers, consumers and our sales force, along with market trend research. Southern Tide apparel products are designed to incorporate various fiber types, including cotton and other natural and man-made fibers, or blends of two or more of these materials.
During the period from the acquisition date through the end of Fiscal 2016, Southern Tide primarily used third party buying agents for the production and sourcing of apparel products. Through its third party buying agents, Southern Tide used approximately 50 suppliers with the largest individual supplier providing 24% and three other suppliers each providing more than 10% of the Southern Tide products. The largest 10 suppliers of Southern Tide provided 81% of the Southern Tide products acquired, while 61% and 18% were sourced from China and Peru, respectively. Southern Tide currently is in the process of transitioning some of its product purchases from third party buying agents to our Hong Kong-based sourcing team. We believe that products can generally be sourced in a more cost effective manner through our existing internal sourcing operations than through third party buying agents.
We believe that advertising and marketing are an integral part of the long-term strategy for the Southern Tide brand, and we therefore devote significant resources to advertising and marketing. Southern Tide's advertising attempts to engage
individuals within the brand's consumer demographic and guide them on a regular basis to our e-commerce website and wholesale customers' stores in search of our products. The marketing of the Southern Tide brand includes email, internet and social media advertising as well as traditional media such as catalogs, print and other correspondence with customers and moving media and trade show initiatives. We believe that it is very important that a lifestyle brand effectively communicate with consumers on a regular basis via the use of electronic media and print correspondence about product offerings or other brand events in order to maintain and strengthen the brand's connections with consumers. For certain of our wholesale customers, we also provide point-of-sale materials and signage to enhance the presentation of our branded products at their retail locations and/or participate in cooperative advertising programs.
Southern Tide utilizes our owned distribution center in Lyons, Georgia for its warehouse and distribution center operations. Activities at the distribution center include receiving finished goods from suppliers, inspecting the products and shipping the products to wholesale customers and our e-commerce customers. We seek to maintain sufficient levels of inventory at the distribution center to support our direct to consumer operations, as well as pre-booked orders and some limited replenishment ordering for our wholesale customers.
Wholesale Operations
At this time, Southern Tide's business is predominantly a wholesale business with sales to independent specialty stores, department stores and Southern Tide Signature Stores. Southern Tide's wholesale operations provide an opportunity to grow our business and have access to a large group of consumers. During the period from the acquisition date through the end of Fiscal 2016, less than 10% of Southern Tide's sales were to department stores and less than 5% of sales were to Southern Tide Signature Stores. Southern Tide's net sales to its five largest wholesale customers represented 20% of Southern Tide's net sales in the period from the acquisition date through the end of Fiscal 2016, with its largest customer representing 6% of Southern Tide's net sales. Southern Tide products are available in more than 950 retail locations.
A component of Southern Tide's plans for growth in wholesale distribution is sales to Signature Stores. For these stores, we enter into agreements whereby we grant the other party the right to independently operate one or more stores as a Southern Tide Signature Store, subject to certain conditions, including designating substantially all the store specifically for Southern Tide products and adhering to certain trademark usage requirements. We sell products to these Southern Tide Signature Stores on a wholesale basis and do not receive royalty income associated with these sales. As of January 28, 2017, there were three Signature Stores located in Kiawah Island, South Carolina, Greenville, South Carolina and Naperville, Illinois. We anticipate entering into additional Signature Store arrangements in the future.
We maintain Southern Tide apparel sales offices and showrooms in Greenville, South Carolina. Our wholesale operations for Southern Tide utilize a sales force consisting of a combination of salaried sales employees and commissioned agents.
Direct to Consumer Operations
A key component of our Southern Tide growth strategy is to expand our direct to consumer operations, which currently consists of the Southern Tide website. In the future, we may open owned retail stores; however, we do not expect to open any owned retail stores during Fiscal 2017. The Southern Tide website markets a full line of merchandise, including apparel and accessories, all presented in a manner intended to enhance the Southern Tide image, brand awareness and acceptance. We believe our Southern Tide website enables us to stay close to the needs and preferences of consumers.
We also utilize the Southern Tide website as a means of liquidating discontinued or out-of-season inventory in a brand appropriate manner. During the year, we have a number of e-commerce flash clearance sales per year, which are typically in industry end of season promotional periods.
Licensing Operations
We currently license the Southern Tide trademark to a licensee for bed and bath product categories. The agreement requires minimum royalty payments as well as royalty and advertising payments and provides us the right to approve all products, advertising and proposed channels of distribution. In the long term, we believe licensing may be an attractive business opportunity for Southern Tide, but opportunities may be somewhat limited until the sales volume and distribution of the Southern Tide brand expands. Once the brand is more fully established, licensing requires modest additional investment but can yield high-margin income. It also affords the opportunity to enhance overall brand awareness and exposure.
Seasonal Aspects of Business
Southern Tide's operating results are impacted by seasonality as the demand by specific product or style as well as demand by distribution channel may vary significantly depending on the time of year. As the timing of certain unusual or non-recurring items, economic conditions, wholesale product shipments or other factors affecting the business may vary from one year to the next, we do not believe that net sales or operating income for any particular quarter or the distribution of net sales
for Fiscal 2016 are necessarily indicative of anticipated results for the full fiscal year or expected distribution in future years. Typically, wholesale product shipments are generally shipped prior to each retail selling seasons.
Corporate and Other
Corporate and Other is a reconciling category for reporting purposes and includes our corporate offices, substantially all financing activities, elimination of inter-segment sales, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments, other costs that are not allocated to the operating groups and operations of other businesses which are not included in our operating groups, including our Lyons, Georgia distribution center operations (which performs warehouse and distribution services for third parties, as well as our Southern Tide and Lanier Apparel businesses). Our LIFO inventory pool does not correspond to our operating group definitions; therefore, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments are not allocated to operating groups.
Discontinued Operations
Discontinued operations include the assets and operations of our former Ben Sherman operating group which we sold in July 2015. Unless otherwise indicated, all references to assets, liabilities, revenues, expenses and other information in this report reflect continuing operations and exclude any amounts related to the discontinued operations of our former Ben Sherman operating group. Refer to Note 13 in our consolidated financial statements included in this report for additional information about discontinued operations.
TRADEMARKS
We own trademarks, several of which are very important and valuable to our business including Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide. Generally, our significant trademarks are subject to registrations and pending applications throughout the world for use on apparel and, in some cases, apparel-related products, accessories, home furnishings and beauty products, as well as in connection with retail services. We continue to evaluate our worldwide usage and registration of certain of our trademarks. In general, trademarks remain valid and enforceable as long as the trademarks are used in connection with our products and services in the relevant jurisdiction and the required registration renewals are filed. Important factors relating to risks associated with our trademarks include, but are not limited to, those described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors.
PRODUCT SOURCING
We intend to maintain flexible, diversified, cost-effective sourcing operations that provide high-quality apparel products. Our operating groups, either internally or through the use of third party buying agents, source virtually all of our products from non-exclusive, third party producers located in foreign countries, with a significant concentration in Asia, or from our licensees for licensed products sold in our direct to consumer distribution channels. During Fiscal 2016, we sourced approximately 58% and 16% of our products from producers located in China and Vietnam, respectively, with no other country greater than 10%. Although we place a high value on long-term relationships with our suppliers and have used many of our suppliers for a number of years, generally we do not have long-term contracts with our suppliers. Instead, we conduct business on an order-by-order basis. Thus, we compete with other companies for the production capacity of independent manufacturers. We believe that this approach provides us with the greatest flexibility in identifying the appropriate manufacturers while considering quality, cost, timing of product delivery and other criteria and also utilizing the expertise of the manufacturers. During Fiscal 2016, no individual third party manufacturer supplied more than 10% of our product purchases.
We purchase virtually all of our products from third party producers as package purchases of finished goods, which are manufactured with oversight by us or our buying agents and to our design and fabric specifications. The use of contract manufacturers reduces the amount of capital investment required by us as operating manufacturing facilities can require a significant amount of capital investment. We depend upon the ability of third party producers to secure a sufficient supply of raw materials specified by us, adequately finance the production of goods ordered and maintain sufficient manufacturing and shipping capacity rather than us providing or financing the costs of these items. We believe that purchasing substantially all of our products as package purchases allows us to reduce our working capital requirements as we are not required to purchase, or finance the purchase of, the raw materials or other production costs related to our product purchases until we take ownership of the finished goods, which typically occurs when the goods are shipped by the third party producers. In addition to purchasing products from third parties, our Lanier Apparel operating group operates our only owned manufacturing facility, which is located in Merida, Mexico and produced 2% of our total company, or 10% of our total Lanier Apparel, products during Fiscal 2016.
As the design, manufacture and transportation of apparel products for our brands may take as many as six months for each season, we typically make commitments months in advance of when products will arrive in our retail stores or our wholesale customers' stores. We continue to seek ways to reduce the time required from design and ordering to bringing products to our customer. As our merchandising departments must estimate our requirements for finished goods purchases for our own retail stores and e-commerce sites based on historical product demand data and other factors, and as purchases for our
wholesale accounts must be committed to and purchased by us prior to the receipt of customer orders in some cases, we carry the risk that we have purchased more inventory than we will ultimately desire.
As part of our commitment to source our products in a lawful and responsible manner, each of our operating groups has implemented a code of conduct program applicable to vendors from whom we purchase goods, which includes provisions related to abiding by applicable laws as well as compliance with other business or ethical standards, including related human rights, health, safety, working conditions, environmental and other requirements. We require that each of our vendors and licensees comply with the applicable code of conduct or substantially similar compliance standards. On an ongoing basis we assess vendors' compliance with the applicable code of conduct and applicable laws and regulations through audits performed by either our employees or our designated agents. This assessment of compliance by vendors is directed by our corporate leadership team. In the event we determine that a vendor is not abiding by our required standards, we work with the vendor to remediate the violation. If the violation is not satisfactorily remediated, we will discontinue use of the vendor.
IMPORT RESTRICTIONS AND OTHER GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS
We are exposed to certain risks as a result of our international operations as substantially all of our merchandise is manufactured by foreign suppliers. During Fiscal 2016, we sourced approximately 58% of our products from producers located in China. Our imported products are subject to customs, trade and other laws and regulations governing their entry into the United States and other countries where we sell our products.
Substantially all of the merchandise we acquire is subject to duties which are assessed on the value of the imported product and represent a component of the cost of the goods we sell. Duty rates vary depending on the type of garment and its fiber content and are subject to change in future periods. In addition, while the World Trade Organization's member nations have eliminated quotas on apparel and textiles, the United States and other countries into which we import our products are still allowed in certain circumstances to unilaterally impose "anti-dumping" or "countervailing" duties in response to threats to their comparable domestic industries.
Although we have not been materially inhibited from doing business in desired markets in the past, we cannot assure that significant impediments will not arise in the future as we expand product offerings and brands and enter into new markets. In addition, after the 2016 elections in the United States, there has been discussion of the United States government implementing significant tax and trade reform, including disallowing deductibility of imported products, providing for a border adjustability tax mechanism for imports and other potential changes. There is a significant amount of uncertainty related to these topics; however it is possible that the proposed changes, if implemented, could have a significant unfavorable impact on the apparel retail industry and our cost of goods sold, operations, net earnings and cash flows. Our management regularly monitors proposed regulatory changes and the existing regulatory environment, including any impact on our operations or on our ability to import products.
In addition, apparel and other products sold by us are subject to stringent and complex product performance and security and safety standards, laws and other regulations. These regulations relate principally to product labeling, certification of product safety and importer security procedures. We believe that we are in material compliance with those regulations. Our licensed products and licensing partners are also subject to such regulation. Our agreements require our licensing partners to operate in compliance with all laws and regulations.
Important factors relating to risks associated with government regulations include those described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors.
INFORMATION TECHNOLOGIES
We believe that sophisticated information systems and functionality are important components of maintaining our competitive position and supporting continued growth of our businesses, particularly in the ever changing consumer shopping environment. Our information systems are designed to provide effective retail store, e-commerce and wholesale operations while emphasizing efficient point-of-sale, distribution center, design, sourcing, order processing, marketing, customer relationship management, accounting and other functions. We regularly evaluate the adequacy of our information technologies and upgrade or enhance our systems to gain operating efficiencies, to provide additional consumer access and to support our anticipated growth as well as other changes in our business. We believe that continuous upgrading and enhancements to our information systems with newer technology that offers greater efficiency, functionality and reporting capabilities is critical to our operations and financial condition.
SEASONAL ASPECTS OF BUSINESS
Each of our operating groups is impacted by seasonality as the demand by specific product or style, as well as by distribution channel, may vary significantly depending on the time of year. For details of the impact of seasonality on each of our operating groups, see the business discussion of each operating group above.
As the timing of certain unusual or non-recurring items, economic conditions, wholesale product shipments, weather or other factors affecting the retail business may vary from one year to the next, we do not believe that net sales or operating income for any particular quarter or the distribution of net sales and operating income for Fiscal 2016 are necessarily indicative of anticipated results for the full fiscal year or expected distribution in future years. Our third quarter has historically been our smallest net sales and operating income quarter and that result is expected to continue as we continue the expansion of our retail store operations in the future. The following table presents our percentage of net sales and operating results by quarter for Fiscal 2016:
|
| | | | | | | | |
| First Quarter | Second Quarter | Third Quarter | Fourth Quarter |
Net sales | 25 | % | 28 | % | 22 | % | 25 | % |
Operating income (loss) | 36 | % | 43 | % | — | % | 21 | % |
ORDER BACKLOG
As 66% of our sales are direct to consumer sales, which are not reflected in an order backlog, and the order backlog for wholesale sales may be impacted by a variety of factors, we do not believe that order backlog information is necessarily indicative of sales to be expected for future periods. Therefore, we believe the order backlog is not material for an understanding of our business taken as a whole. Further, as our sales continue to shift towards direct to consumer rather than wholesale sales, the order backlog will continue to be less meaningful as a measure of our future sales and results of operations.
EMPLOYEES
As of January 28, 2017, we employed approximately 5,800 persons, of whom approximately 85% were employed in the United States. Approximately 70% of our employees were retail store and restaurant employees. We believe our employee relations are good.
INFORMATION
Oxford Industries, Inc. is a Georgia corporation originally founded in 1942. Our corporate headquarters are located at 999 Peachtree Street, N.E., Ste. 688, Atlanta, Georgia 30309. Our internet address is oxfordinc.com. Copies of our annual report on Form 10-K, proxy statement, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q and current reports on Form 8-K, and amendments to those reports filed or furnished pursuant to Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended, are available free of charge on our website the same day that they are electronically filed with the SEC. The information on our website is not and should not be considered part of this Annual Report on Form 10-K and is not incorporated by reference in this document.
In addition, copies of our annual report on Form 10-K, excluding exhibits, are available without cost to our shareholders by writing to Investor Relations, Oxford Industries, Inc., 999 Peachtree Street, N.E., Suite 688, Atlanta, Georgia 30309.
Item 1A. Risk Factors
The risks described below highlight some of the factors that could materially affect our operations. If any of these risks actually occurs, our business, financial condition, prospects and/or operating results may be adversely affected. These are not the only risks and uncertainties we face. We operate in a competitive and rapidly changing business environment, and additional risks and uncertainties not presently known to us or that we currently consider immaterial may also adversely affect our business.
We operate in a highly competitive industry which is evolving very rapidly; our ability to execute and/or transform our direct to consumer and portfolio-level strategies in light of shifts in consumer shopping behavior subjects us to risks that could adversely affect our financial results and operations.
We operate in a highly competitive industry in which the principal competitive factors are the reputation, value and image of brand names; design; consumer preference; price; quality; marketing; product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service. We believe that our ability to compete successfully is directly related to our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference, including the manner in which retail consumers seek to transact business and access products, and presenting appealing products for consumers when and where they seek it.
The highly competitive apparel industry has historically been characterized by low barriers to entry and includes numerous domestic and foreign apparel designers, manufacturers, distributors, importers, licensors and retailers, some of whom are also our customers, and some of whom may be significantly larger, are more diversified and/or have significantly greater financial resources than we do. Competitive factors within the apparel industry may result in reduced sales, increased costs, lower prices for our products and/or decreased margins.
One of our key initiatives has been to grow our branded businesses through distribution strategies that allow our consumers to access our brands whenever and wherever they choose to shop. Our success depends to a large degree on our ability to introduce new retail concepts and products; identify retail locations with the proper consumer demographics; establish the infrastructure necessary to support growth; source appropriate levels of inventory; hire and train qualified personnel; anticipate and implement innovations in sales and marketing technology to align with our consumers’ shopping preferences; and maintain brand specific websites and other social media presence that offer the functionality and security customers expect.
We believe the retail apparel market is evolving very rapidly and in ways that are having a disruptive impact on traditional fashion retailers:
| |
• | Technology, including the internet and mobile devices, is providing consumers with unprecedented access to multiple, responsive distribution platforms, an unprecedented ability to communicate directly with brands, retailers and others and opportunities to shop for products shipped by retailers globally. As a result, consumers in today’s retail environment have more information, including transparency in product pricing and competitive offerings from competing brands, and broader, faster and cheaper access to goods than they have ever had before, which is revolutionizing the way that consumers shop for fashion and other goods. |
| |
• | Large e-commerce retailers, who have historically focused on commoditized product categories, are dedicating resources to enter the fashion retail space, resulting in increased competition from competitors with significant financial resources and enhanced distribution capabilities. As a result, many fashion brands are confronting the challenge of making their products available through these distribution channels while, at the same time, taking a cautious approach to ensure brand integrity. |
| |
• | At the same time, the bricks and mortar outlet mall, off-price and fast fashion channels of distribution, in particular off-price retailers carrying brand label products at clearance, have seen strong retail consumer traffic and strengthening comparable store sales, with consumers seeking bargains on fashion brands. Many of these retailers have announced plans for significant growth in door counts, adding traffic and pricing pressure to traditional retailers. In response, traditional fashion retailers have become promotional, both online and in-store, and have modified the merchandising of their outlet mall locations for greater consumer appeal and to find growth and profitability. |
| |
• | These changes in consumer shopping behavior patterns and the proliferation of smaller, e-commerce focused apparel brands have contributed to the challenges facing the traditional department store model. These traditional department stores are challenged to effectively service today’s consumer as a one-stop destination for fashion branded products, further exacerbating promotional pressure at the department stores and the decline in consumer retail traffic for mall-based retailers. |
This evolution in the manner in which consumers transact business globally and our efforts to respond to these changes and execute our direct to consumer strategies could adversely affect our financial results and operations as a result of, among other things: investment in technology and infrastructure, which is extremely complex, in order to remain competitive (including investments to maintain modern technology and functionality similar to that provided by our competitors and expected by our customers); reliance on outdated technology that is not as appealing or functionally effective as those of our competitors; an inability to provide customer-facing technology systems, including mobile technology solutions, that function reliably and provide a convenient and consistent experience for our customers; our own e-commerce business and/or third party offers diverting sales from our bricks and mortar retail stores, where we have made substantial capital expenditures on leasehold improvements and have significant remaining long-term financial commitments; the decisions we make with respect to which wholesale customers we are willing to sell our products to in order to maintain a consistent brand message and pricing
strategy; our own promotional activity and pricing strategies; any failure to properly communicate our brand message or recreate the ambiance of our retail stores through social media; a reliance on third party service providers for software, processing and similar services; liability for our online content; credit card fraud; and failure of computer systems, theft of personal consumer information and computer viruses. Additionally, the rapid dissemination of information and opinions in the current marketplace through social media and other platforms increases the challenges of responding to negative perceptions or commentary about our brands or products.
Any inability on our part to properly manage these risks and effectively adapt to the evolving consumer shopping behavioral trends may result in lost sales and/or adversely impact our results of operations, reputation and credibility.
Our success depends on the reputation and value of our brand names; any failure to maintain the reputation or value of our brands and/or to offer innovative, fashionable and desirable products could adversely affect our business operations and financial condition.
Our success depends on the reputation and value of our brand names. The value of our brands could be diminished by actions taken by us or by our wholesale customers or others who have an interest in the brands. Actions that could cause harm to our brands include failing to respond to emerging fashion trends or meet consumer quality expectations; selling products bearing our brands through distribution channels that are inconsistent with the retail channels in which our customers expect to find those brands; becoming overly promotional; or setting up consumer expectations for promotional activity for our products. We are becoming more reliant on social media as one of our marketing strategies and the value of our brands could be adversely affected if we do not effectively communicate our brand message through social media vehicles that interface with our consumers in “real-time.” In addition, we cannot always control the marketing and promotion of our products by our wholesale customers or other third parties, and actions by such parties that are inconsistent with our own marketing efforts or that otherwise adversely affect the appeal of our products could diminish the value or reputation of one or more of our brands and have an adverse effect on our sales and business operations.
During Fiscal 2016, Tommy Bahama’s and Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales represented 64% and 23%, respectively, of our consolidated net sales. The significant concentration in our portfolio may heighten the risks we face if one of these brands fails to meet our expectations and/or is adversely impacted by actions we or third parties take with respect to that brand or by competitive conditions in the apparel industry.
Although certain of our products carry over from season to season, the apparel industry is subject to rapidly changing fashion trends and shifting consumer demands. Due to the competitive nature of the apparel industry, there can be no assurance that the demand for our products will not decline or that we will be able to successfully evaluate and adapt our products to align with consumer preferences and changes in consumer demographics. Any failure on our part to develop and market appealing products could result in weakened financial performance and/or harm the reputation and desirability of our brands and products.
We also license certain of our brands to third party licensees, including in Tommy Bahama for purposes of retail and/or wholesale distribution of our apparel products in certain international markets. While we enter into comprehensive license and similar collaborative agreements with third parties covering product design, product quality, sourcing, distribution, manufacturing and marketing requirements and approvals, there can be no guarantee our brands will not be negatively impacted through our association with products outside of our core apparel products, by the market perception of the third parties with whom we associate and/or due to the actions of a licensee. The improper or detrimental actions of a licensee could significantly impact the perception of our brands.
In addition, the reputation of our brands could be harmed if our third party manufacturers and vendors, substantially all of which are located outside the United States, fail to meet appropriate product safety, product quality and social compliance standards, including the terms of our applicable codes of conduct and vendor compliance standards. We cannot assure that our manufacturers and vendors will at all times conduct their operations in accordance with ethical practices or that the products we purchase will always meet our safety and quality control standards. Any violation of our applicable codes of conduct or local laws relating to labor conditions by our manufacturers or vendors or other actions or failures by us or such parties may result in negative public perception of our brands or products, as well as disrupt our supply chain, which may adversely affect our business operations.
The apparel industry is heavily influenced by general economic conditions, and a deterioration or worsening of consumer confidence or consumer purchases of discretionary products may adversely affect our business and financial condition, including as a result of adverse business conditions for third parties with whom we do business.
We are a consumer products company and are highly dependent on consumer discretionary spending and retail traffic patterns. The levels of demand for apparel products change as regional, domestic and international economic conditions change. Demand for our products may be significantly impacted by trends in consumer confidence and discretionary consumer spending, which may be influenced by employment levels; recessions; fuel and energy costs; interest rates; tax rates and changes in tax laws; personal debt levels; stock market volatility; and general uncertainty about the future. The factors impacting consumer confidence and discretionary consumer spending are outside of our control and difficult to predict, and, often, the apparel industry experiences longer periods of recession and greater declines than the general economy. Any deterioration or worsening of consumer confidence or discretionary consumer spending could reduce our sales and/or adversely affect our business and financial condition.
Additionally, significant changes in the operations or liquidity of any of the parties with which we conduct our business, including suppliers, customers, trademark licensees and lenders, among others, now or in the future, or in the access to capital markets for any such parties, could result in lower demand for our products, lower sales, higher costs or other disruptions in our business.
Loss of one or more of our key wholesale customers, or a significant adverse change in a customer’s financial performance or financial position, could negatively impact our net sales and profitability.
We generate a significant percentage of our wholesale sales from a few key customers. For example, during Fiscal 2016, 46% of our consolidated wholesale sales, or 16% of our consolidated net sales, were to our five largest customers. Over the last several years, there have been significant levels of store closures by department stores and other large retailers, particularly as the retail industry has transitioned more towards online and mobile transactions; increased prevalence and emphasis on private label products at large retailers; direct sourcing of products by large retailers; consolidation of a number of retailers; and increased competition experienced by our wholesale customers from online competitors. A decrease in the number of stores that carry our products, restructuring of our customers’ operations, continued store closures by major department stores, direct sourcing and greater leverage by customers, realignment of customer affiliations or other factors could negatively impact our net sales and profitability.
We generally do not have long-term contracts with our wholesale customers. Instead, we rely on long-standing relationships with these customers, the appeal of our brands and our position within the marketplace. As a result, purchases generally occur on an order-by-order basis, and each relationship can typically be terminated by either party at any time. A decision by one or more of our key wholesale customers to terminate its relationship with us or to reduce its purchases from us, whether motivated by competitive considerations, quality or style issues, financial difficulties, economic conditions or otherwise, could adversely affect our net sales and profitability, as it would be difficult to immediately, if at all, replace this business with new customers, reduce our operating costs or increase sales volumes with other existing customers. In addition, as department stores and other large retailers become more promotional, we may decide to terminate or curtail our sales to certain customers, for brand protection or otherwise, which could similarly impact our net sales and profitability.
We also extend credit to most of our key wholesale customers without requiring collateral, which results in a large amount of receivables from just a few customers. At January 28, 2017, our five largest outstanding customer balances represented $29 million, or 50% of our consolidated receivables balance. Companies in the apparel industry, including some of our customers, may experience financial difficulties, including bankruptcies, restructurings and reorganizations, tightened credit markets and/or declining sales and profitability. A significant adverse change in a customer’s financial position could cause us to limit or discontinue business with that customer, require us to assume greater credit risk relating to that customer’s receivables or limit our ability to collect amounts related to shipments to that customer.
We rely to a large extent on third party producers in foreign countries to meet our production demands, and failures by these producers to meet our requirements, the unavailability of suitable producers at reasonable prices and/or changes in international trade regulation may negatively impact our ability to deliver quality products to our customers on a timely basis, disrupt our supply chain or result in higher costs or reduced net sales.
We source substantially all of our products from non-exclusive, third party producers located in foreign countries, including sourcing approximately 58% and 16% of our product purchases from China and Vietnam, respectively, during Fiscal 2016. Although we place a high value on long-term relationships with our suppliers, generally we do not have long-term supply contracts but, instead, conduct business on an order-by-order basis. Therefore, we compete with other companies for the production capacity of independent manufacturers. We also depend on the ability of these third party producers to secure a sufficient supply of raw materials, adequately finance the production of goods ordered and maintain sufficient manufacturing and shipping capacity, and in some cases, the products we purchase and the raw materials that are used in our products are available only from one source or a limited number of sources. Although we monitor production in third party manufacturing
locations, we cannot be certain that we will not experience operational difficulties with our manufacturers, such as the reduction of availability of production capacity, errors in complying with product specifications, insufficient quality control, failures to meet production deadlines or increases in manufacturing costs. Such difficulties may negatively impact our ability to deliver quality products to our customers on a timely basis. This would jeopardize our ability to service our customers and properly merchandise our direct to consumer channels, which may, in turn, have a negative impact on our customer relationships and result in lower net sales.
In addition, due to our sourcing activities, we are exposed to risks associated with changes in the laws and regulations governing the importing and exporting of apparel products into and from the countries in which we operate. These risks include changes in social, political, labor and economic conditions or terrorist acts that could result in the disruption of trade from the countries in which our manufacturers are located; the imposition of additional or new duties, tariffs, taxes, quota restrictions or other changes and shifts in sourcing patterns as a result of such changes; significant delays in the delivery of our products, due to security or other considerations; fluctuations in sourcing costs; the imposition of antidumping or countervailing duties; fluctuations in the value of the dollar against foreign currencies; changes in customs procedures for importing apparel products; and restrictions on the transfer of funds to or from foreign countries. We may not be able to offset any disruption or cost increases to our supply chain as a result of any of these factors by shifting production to suitable manufacturers in other jurisdictions in a timely manner or at acceptable prices, and future regulatory actions or changes in international trade regulation may provide our competitors with a material advantage over us.
In this regard, the results of the November 2016 U.S. election have introduced greater uncertainty with respect to future trade regulations. For example, the new Presidential administration has suggested modifying existing trade agreements and/or imposing tariffs on foreign products. We cannot predict whether or not any of the foreign countries in which our products are produced will be subject to import restrictions or new or increased duties, taxes or other charges on imports. Trade restrictions, including increased tariffs, or more restrictive quotas including safeguard quotas, or anything similar, applicable to apparel items could affect the importation of apparel generally and increase the cost, or reduce the supply, of products we may be able to sell to our customers.
Changes in tax laws and unanticipated tax liabilities could adversely affect our effective income tax rate and profitability.
As a global apparel company, we are subject to income taxes in the United States and various foreign jurisdictions. We record our income tax liability based on an analysis and interpretation of local tax laws and regulations, which requires a significant amount of judgment and estimation. In addition, we may from time to time modify our operations in an effort to minimize our global income tax exposure. Our effective income tax rate in any particular period or in future periods may be affected by a number of factors, including a shift in the mix of revenues, income and/or losses among domestic and international sources during a year or over a period of years; changes in tax laws and regulations and/or international tax treaties; the outcome of income tax audits in various jurisdictions; new expensing rules associated with stock compensation; and the resolution of uncertain tax positions, any of which could adversely affect our effective income tax rate and profitability.
Changes in the tax laws of the jurisdictions where we do business, including an increase in tax rates or an adverse change in the treatment of an item of income or expense, could result in a material increase in our tax expense. For example, in the United States, a number of proposals for broad reform of the corporate tax system are being discussed by legislators, including a border adjustability tax, increased taxes on imports and a limit on the ability of U.S. companies to defer U.S. tax on unrepatriated foreign earnings. In addition, policy statements by the new Presidential administration have introduced greater uncertainty with respect to future tax and trade regulations. Although we cannot accurately predict whether, when or to what extent new U.S. federal tax laws, regulations, interpretations or rulings will be issued, or the overall effect of any such changes on our effective tax rate, changes such as these may have a material adverse effect on our results of operations and cash flows.
Breaches of information security or privacy could damage our reputation or credibility and cause us financial harm.
As an ongoing part of our business operations, including direct to consumer transactions and marketing through various social media tools, we regularly collect and utilize sensitive and confidential personal information, including of our customers, employees and suppliers and including credit card information. The routine operation of our business involves the storage and transmission of customer personal information, preferences and credit card information, and we use social media and other online activities to connect with our customers. The regulatory environment governing our use of individually identifiable data of customers, employees and others is complex, and the security of personal information is a matter of public concern.
Cybersecurity attacks continue to become increasingly sophisticated, and experienced computer programmers and hackers may be able to penetrate our network security and misappropriate or compromise our confidential information or
disrupt our systems. Despite our implementation of security measures, if an actual or perceived data security breach occurs, whether as a result of cybersecurity attacks, computer viruses, vandalism, human error or otherwise, the image of our brands and our reputation and credibility could be damaged. The costs to eliminate or alleviate cyber or other security problems and vulnerabilities, including to comply with security or other measures under state, federal and international laws governing the unauthorized disclosure of confidential information or to resolve any litigation, and to enhance cybersecurity protection through organizational changes, deploying additional personnel and protection technologies, training employees and engaging third party experts and consultants could be significant and result in significant financial losses and expenses, as well as lost sales.
As part of our routine operations, we also contract with third party service providers to store, process and transmit personal information of our employees and customers. Although we contractually require that these providers implement reasonable security measures, we cannot control third parties and cannot guarantee that a security breach will not occur at their location or within their systems. Privacy breaches of confidential information stored or used by our third party service providers may expose us to negative publicity, as well as potential out-of-pocket costs which could materially adversely affect our business and customer relationships.
In addition, privacy and information security laws and requirements change frequently, and compliance with them or similar security standards, such as those created by the payment card industry, may require us to modify our operations and/or incur costs to make necessary systems changes and implement new administrative processes. Our failure to comply with these laws and regulations, or similar security standards, could lead to fines, penalties or adverse publicity.
Our business depends on our senior management and other key personnel, and the unsuccessful transition of key management responsibilities, the unexpected loss of individuals integral to our business, our inability to attract and retain qualified personnel in the future or our failure to successfully plan for and implement succession of our senior management and key personnel may have an adverse effect on our operations, business relationships and ability to execute our strategies.
Our senior management has substantial experience and expertise in the apparel and related industries, with our Chairman and Chief Executive Officer Mr. Thomas C. Chubb III having worked with our company for more than 25 years, including in various executive management capacities. Our success depends on disciplined execution at all levels of our organization, including our senior management, and continued succession planning. Competition for qualified personnel in the apparel industry is intense, and we compete to attract and retain these individuals with other companies that may have greater financial resources than us. While we believe that we have depth within our management team, the unexpected loss of any of our senior management, or the unsuccessful integration of new leadership, could harm our business and financial performance. In addition, we may be unable to retain or recruit qualified personnel in key areas such as product design, sales, marketing (including individuals with key insights into digital and social media marketing strategies), technology, sourcing and other support functions, which could result in missed sales opportunities and harm to key business relationships.
Our operations are reliant on information technology and any interruption or other failure, in particular at one of our principal distribution facilities, may impair our ability to provide products to our customers, efficiently conduct our operations and meet the needs of our management.
The efficient operation of our business is dependent on information technology. Information systems are used in all stages of our operations and as a method of communication with our customers, service providers and suppliers. Additionally, each of our operating groups utilizes e-commerce websites to sell goods directly to consumers. Our management also relies on information systems to provide relevant and accurate information in order to allocate resources and forecast and report our operating results. Service interruptions may occur as a result of a number of factors, including power outages, consumer traffic levels, computer viruses, hacking or other unlawful activities by third parties, disasters or failures to properly install, upgrade, integrate, protect, repair or maintain our various systems and e-commerce websites. We regularly evaluate upgrades or enhancements to our information systems to more efficiently and competitively operate our businesses. We may experience difficulties during the implementation, upgrade or subsequent operation of our systems and/or not be equipped to address system problems. Any material disruption in our information technology systems, or any failure to timely, efficiently and effectively integrate new systems, could have an adverse effect on our business or results of operations.
We may additionally have a greater risk than our peers due to the concentration of our distribution facilities. The primary distribution facilities that we operate are: a distribution center in Auburn, Washington for substantially all of our Tommy Bahama products; a distribution center in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania for substantially all of our Lilly Pulitzer products; distribution centers in Toccoa, Georgia and Lyons, Georgia for substantially all of our Lanier Apparel products; and a distribution center in Lyons, Georgia for substantially all of our Southern Tide products. Each of these distribution centers relies
on computer-controlled and automated equipment, which may be subject to a number of risks. Our ability to support our direct to consumer operations, meet customer expectations, manage inventory and achieve objectives for operating efficiencies depends on the proper operation of these distribution facilities, each of which manages the receipt, storage, sorting, packing and distribution of finished goods.
If any of our primary distribution facilities were to shut down or otherwise become inoperable or inaccessible for any reason, including as a result of natural or man-made disasters, cybersecurity attacks, computer viruses or otherwise, if our distribution facilities fail to upgrade their technological systems to ensure efficient operations or if we are unable to receive goods in a distribution center or to ship the goods in a distribution center, as a result of a technology failure or otherwise, we could experience a reduction in sales, a substantial loss of inventory or higher costs, insufficient inventory at our retail stores to meet consumer expectations and longer lead times associated with the distribution of our products. In addition, for the distribution facilities that we operate, there are substantial fixed costs associated with these large, highly automated distribution centers, and we could experience reduced operating and cost efficiencies during periods of economic weakness. Any disruption to our distribution facilities or in their efficient operation could negatively affect our operating results and our customer relationships.
Our business is subject to various federal, foreign, state and local laws and regulations, and the costs of compliance with, or the violation of, such laws and regulations could have an adverse effect on our costs or operations.
In the United States, we are subject to stringent standards, laws and other regulations, including those relating to health, product performance and safety, labor, employment, privacy and data security, anti-bribery, consumer protection, taxation, customs, logistics and similar operational matters. In addition, operating in foreign jurisdictions, including those where we may operate retail stores, requires compliance with similar laws and regulations. These laws and regulations, in the United States and abroad, are complex and often vary widely by jurisdiction, making it difficult for us to ensure that we are currently or will in the future be compliant with all applicable laws and regulations. We may be required to make significant expenditures or modify our business practices to comply with existing or future laws or regulations, and unfavorable resolution to litigation or a violation of applicable laws and regulations by us, or any of our suppliers or licensees, may restrict our ability to import products, require a recall of our products, lead to fines or otherwise increase our costs, negatively impact our ability to attract and retain employees, materially limit our ability to operate our business or result in adverse publicity. Compliance with these laws and regulations requires us to devote time and management resources, and to update our processes and programs, in response to newly implemented or changing regulatory requirements, all of which could affect the manner in which we operate our business or adversely affect our results of operations.
In addition, like many retailers, we are impacted by trends in litigation, including class action litigation brought under various consumer protection and employment laws and are subject to various claims and pending or threatened lawsuits in the ordinary course of our business operations. Due to the inherent uncertainties of litigation, we cannot accurately predict the ultimate outcome of any such proceedings, and regardless of the outcome or whether the claims have merit, legal proceedings may be expensive and require that our management devote significant time to defend.
Also, the restaurant industry requires compliance with a variety of federal, state and local regulations. In particular, all of our Tommy Bahama restaurants, as well as our recently launched Marlin Bar concept at Tommy Bahama, serve alcohol and, therefore, maintain liquor licenses. Our ability to maintain our liquor licenses depends on our compliance with applicable laws and regulations. The loss of a liquor license would adversely affect the profitability of that restaurant. Additionally, as a participant in the restaurant industry, we face risks related to food quality, food-borne illness, injury, health inspection scores and labor relations.
Regardless of whether any allegations of violations of the laws and regulations governing our business are valid or whether we ultimately become liable, we may be materially affected by negative publicity associated with these issues. For example, the negative impact of adverse publicity relating to allegations of violations at one of our restaurants may extend beyond the restaurant involved to affect some or all of the other restaurants, as well as the image of the Tommy Bahama brand as a whole.
Our business could be harmed if we fail to maintain proper inventory levels.
Many factors, such as economic conditions, fashion trends, consumer preferences, the financial condition of our wholesale customers and weather, make it difficult to accurately forecast demand for our products. In order to meet the expected demand for our products in a cost-effective manner, we make commitments for production several months prior to our receipt of these goods and often in advance of firm commitments, if any, from wholesale customers. Depending on the demand levels for our products, we may be unable to sell the products we have ordered or that we have in our inventory, which may
result in inventory markdowns, such as the $5 million of inventory markdowns recognized by Tommy Bahama in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2016, or the sale of excess inventory at discounted prices and through off-price channels. These events could significantly harm our operating results and impair the image of our brands. Conversely, if we underestimate demand for our products or if we are unable to access our products when we need them, for example due to a third party manufacturer’s inability to source materials or produce goods in a timely fashion or as a result of delays in the delivery of products to us, such as the delay in arrival of Lilly Pulitzer product during the Third Quarter of Fiscal 2016 as a result of the Hanjin shipping bankruptcy, we may experience inventory shortages, which might result in unfilled orders, negatively impact customer relationships, diminish brand loyalty and result in lost sales, any of which could harm our business.
We may be unable to grow our business through organic growth, and any failure to successfully execute this aspect of our business strategy may have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition, liquidity and results of operations.
One key component of our business strategy is organic growth in our brands. Organic growth may be achieved by, among other things, increasing sales in our direct to consumer channels; selling our products in new markets, including international markets; increasing our market share in existing markets, including to existing wholesale customers; expanding the demographic appeal of our brands; expanding our margins through product cost reductions, price increases, or otherwise; and increasing the product offerings within our various operating groups. Successful growth of our business is subject to, among other things, our ability to implement plans for expanding and/or maintaining our existing businesses and categories within our businesses at satisfactory levels. We may not be successful in achieving suitable organic growth, and our inability to grow our business may have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition, liquidity and results of operations.
In addition, investments we make in technology and infrastructure, retail stores and restaurants, office and distribution center facilities, personnel and elsewhere may not yield the full benefits we anticipate and/or sales growth may be outpaced by increases in operating costs, putting downward pressure on our operating margins and adversely affecting our results of operations. If we are unable to increase our sales growth targets organically, we may be required to pursue other strategic initiatives, including reductions in costs and/or acquisitions, in order to grow our business. These initiatives may not be available to us on desirable terms, inhibiting our ability to increase profitability.
The acquisition of new businesses and the divestiture or discontinuation of businesses and product lines have certain inherent risks, including, for example, strains on our management team and unexpected costs and other charges resulting from the transaction.
Growth of our business through acquisitions of lifestyle brands that fit within our business model is a component of our business strategy. For example, during Fiscal 2016, we acquired Southern Tide, LLC, which owns the Southern Tide lifestyle brand, and also acquired the Duck Head and Strong Suit brands. Acquisitions involve numerous risks, including: the competitive climate for desirable acquisition candidates, which drives market multiples; the benefits of the acquisition not materializing as planned or not materializing within the time periods or to the extent anticipated; our ability to manage the people and processes of an acquired business; difficulties in retaining key relationships with customers and suppliers; risks in entering geographic markets and/or product categories in which we have no or limited prior experience; and the possibility that we pay more to consummate an acquisition than the value we derive from the acquired business. Additionally, acquisitions may cause us to incur debt, assume other liabilities or make dilutive issuances of our equity securities.
As described in Note 1 in our consolidated financial statements included in this report, at the time of an acquisition, we estimate and record the fair value of purchased intangible assets, such as trademarks, reacquired rights and customer relationships, and record goodwill generally to the extent the cost to acquire a business exceeds our assessment of the net fair value of tangible and intangible assets. We test indefinite-lived intangible assets and goodwill for possible impairment as of the first day of the fourth quarter of each fiscal year, or at an interim date if indicators of impairment exist at that date. It is possible that we could have an impairment charge for goodwill or intangible assets in future periods if, among other things, economic conditions decline, our strategies for an acquired business change, the results of operations of an acquired business are less than anticipated at the time of acquisition or enterprise values of comparable publicly traded companies decline, resulting in an impairment of the goodwill and/or intangible assets associated with an acquired business. A future impairment charge for goodwill or intangible assets could have a material adverse effect on our consolidated financial position or results of operations.
As a result of acquisitions, we may become responsible for unexpected liabilities that we failed or were unable to discover in the course of performing due diligence. Although we may be entitled to indemnification against undisclosed liabilities from the sellers of the acquired business, our recourse may be limited and we cannot be certain that the indemnification, even if obtained, will be enforceable or collectible. Any of these liabilities, individually or in the aggregate, could have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition and results of operations.
In addition, integrating acquired businesses is a complex, time-consuming and expensive process. The integration process for newly acquired businesses could create for us a number of challenges and adverse consequences associated with the integration of product lines, employees, sales teams and outsourced manufacturers; employee turnover, including key management and creative personnel of the acquired and existing businesses; disruption in product cycles for newly acquired product lines; maintenance of acceptable standards, controls, procedures and policies; operating business in new geographic territories; diversion of the attention of our management from other areas of our business; and the impairment of relationships with customers of the acquired and existing businesses. Merger and acquisition activity is inherently risky, and we cannot be certain that any acquisition will be successful and will not materially harm our business, operating results or financial condition.
From time to time, we also divest or discontinue businesses and/or product lines that do not align with our strategy or provide the returns that we expect or desire. For example, during Fiscal 2015, we sold the operations and assets of our former Ben Sherman operating group. Disposition transactions, as well as the discontinuation of business and/or product lines, may result in underutilization of our retained resources if the exited operations are not replaced with new lines of business, either internally or through acquisition. In addition, we may become responsible for unexpected liabilities, some of which may be triggered or increased by a purchaser’s operation of the disposed business following the transaction. Those liabilities combined with any other liabilities we contractually retain, individually or in the aggregate, could adversely affect our financial condition and results of operations.
We may be unable to protect our trademarks and other intellectual property.
We believe that our trademarks and other intellectual property, as well as certain contractual arrangements, including licenses, and other proprietary intellectual property rights, have significant value and are important to our continued success and our competitive position due to their recognition by retailers and consumers. In Fiscal 2016, 92% of our consolidated net sales were attributable to branded products for which we own the trademark. Therefore, our success depends to a significant degree on our ability to protect and preserve our intellectual property. We rely on laws in the United States and other countries to protect our proprietary rights. However, we may not be able to sufficiently prevent third parties from using our intellectual property without our authorization, particularly in those countries where the laws do not protect our proprietary rights as fully as in the United States. The use of our intellectual property or similar intellectual property by others could reduce or eliminate any competitive advantage we have developed, causing us to lose sales or otherwise harm the reputation of our brands.
We devote significant resources to the registration and protection of our trademarks and to anti-counterfeiting efforts. Despite these efforts, we regularly discover products that are counterfeit reproductions of our products, that otherwise infringe on our proprietary rights or that otherwise seek to mimic or leverage our intellectual property. These counterfeiting activities typically increase as brand recognition increases, especially in markets outside the United States. Counterfeiting of our brands could divert away sales, and association of our brands with inferior counterfeit reproductions could adversely affect the integrity and reputation of our brands.
Additionally, there can be no assurance that the actions that we have taken will be adequate to prevent others from seeking to block sales of our products as violations of proprietary rights. As we extend our brands into new product categories and new product lines and expand the geographic scope of our manufacture, distribution and marketing, we could become subject to litigation or challenge based on allegations of the infringement of intellectual property rights of third parties, including by various third parties who have acquired or claim ownership rights in some of our trademarks internationally. In the event a claim of infringement against us is successful or would otherwise affect our operations, we may be required to pay damages, royalties or license fees or other costs to continue to use intellectual property rights that we had been using, or we may be unable to obtain necessary licenses from third parties at a reasonable cost or within a reasonable time. Litigation and other legal action of this type, regardless of whether it is successful, could result in substantial costs to us and diversion of the attention of our management and other resources.
Fluctuations and volatility in the cost and availability of raw materials, labor and freight may materially increase our costs.
We and our third party suppliers rely on the availability of raw materials at reasonable prices. The principal fabrics used in our business are cotton, linens, wools, silk, other natural fibers, synthetics and blends of these materials. The prices paid for these fabrics depend on the market price for raw materials used to produce them. In addition, the cost of the materials that are used in our manufacturing process, such as oil-related commodity prices and other raw materials, such as dyes and chemicals, and other costs, can fluctuate. In recent years, we have seen increases in the costs of certain raw materials as a result of weather-related supply disruptions, significant declines in U.S. inventory and a sharp rise in the futures market for cotton. We historically have not entered into any futures contracts to hedge commodity prices.
In recent years, we have also seen increases in the cost of labor at many of our suppliers, particularly with the growth of the middle class in certain countries, as well as in freight costs. In China, for example, apparel manufacturers have experienced increased costs due to labor shortages and other factors, and these increased costs are often passed on to us. Although we attempt to mitigate the effect of increases in our cost of goods sold through sourcing initiatives and by selectively increasing the prices of our products, these product costing pressures, as well as other variable cost pressures, may materially increase our costs, and we may be unable to fully pass on these costs to our customers.
As of January 28, 2017, we had approximately 4,000 retail store and restaurant employees. The employment and employment-related costs associated with these employees are a significant component in the SG&A of our retail store and restaurant operations. Employment costs are affected by various federal, state and foreign laws governing matters such as minimum wage rates, overtime compensation and other requirements. For example, in recent years, there has been significant political pressure and legislative action to increase the minimum wage rate in many of the jurisdictions within which our stores are located. Although we have not thus far been materially affected by these legislative increases in minimum wage rates, any increases in our employment costs, as a result of continued increases in minimum wage rates or otherwise, may materially increase our costs, reduce the profitability or expected profitability of continuing and prospective retail and restaurant operations and/or adversely impact our results of operations.
We may not be successful in identifying locations and negotiating appropriate lease terms for retail stores and restaurants.
An integral part of our strategy has been to develop and operate retail stores and restaurants for certain of our lifestyle brands. Net sales from our retail stores and restaurants were 48% of our consolidated net sales during Fiscal 2016.
We lease all of our retail store and restaurant locations. Successful operation of our retail stores and restaurants depends, in part, on our ability to identify desirable, brand appropriate locations; the overall ability of the location to attract a consumer base sufficient to make store sales volume profitable; our ability to negotiate satisfactory lease terms and employ qualified personnel; and our ability to timely construct and complete any build-out and open the location in accordance with our plans. A decline in the volume of consumer traffic at our retail stores and restaurants, due to economic conditions, shifts in consumer shopping preferences or technology, a decline in the popularity of malls or lifestyle centers in general or at those in which we operate, the closing of anchor stores or other adjacent tenants or otherwise, could have a negative impact on our sales, gross margin and results of operations. In addition, as and when we seek to open new retail stores and restaurants, we compete with others for favorable locations, lease terms and desired personnel. Retail growth may be limited if we are unable to identify new locations with consumer traffic sufficient to support a profitable sales level or the local market reception to a new retail store opening is inconsistent with our expectations.
Our retail store and restaurant leases generally represent long-term financial commitments, with substantial costs at lease inception for a location’s design, leasehold improvements, fixtures and systems installation. Impairment testing of our retail stores’ long-lived assets requires us to make estimates about our future performance and cash flows that are inherently uncertain. These estimates can be affected by numerous factors, including changes in economic conditions, our results of operations, and competitive conditions in the industry. Due to the fixed-cost structure associated with our retail operations, negative cash flows or the closure of a retail store or restaurant could result in write-downs of inventory, impairment of leasehold improvements, impairment of other long-lived assets, severance costs, lease termination costs or the loss of working capital, which could adversely impact our business and financial results. For example, during the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2016, we recognized certain charges in connection with closing three Tommy Bahama retail stores, including outlets. These charges may increase as we continue to evaluate our retail operations.
In addition, our retail store and restaurant leases generally grant the third party landlord with discretion on a number of operational matters, such as store hours and construction of our improvements. The recent consolidation within the commercial real estate development, operation and/or management industries may reduce our leverage with those parties, thereby adversely affecting the terms of future leases for our retail stores and restaurants or making entering into long-term commitments with such parties cost prohibitive.
Our geographic concentration of retail stores and wholesale customers for certain of our brands exposes us to certain regional risks.
Our retail locations are heavily concentrated in certain geographic areas in the United States, including Florida and California for our Tommy Bahama retail stores (53 out of 144 domestic stores in these states as of January 28, 2017) and Florida and Texas for our Lilly Pulitzer retail stores (18 out of 40 stores as of January 28, 2017). Additionally, the wholesale sales for each of Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide experience geographic concentration, including in geographic areas where we have concentrations of our own retail store locations. Due to this concentration, we have
heightened exposure to factors that impact these regions, including general economic conditions, weather patterns, natural disasters, changing demographics and other factors.
Our direct to consumer operations in international markets may continue to adversely impact our results of operations.
In recent years we began expansion of the Tommy Bahama brand into international markets. These efforts included the acquisition of the assets and operations of the Tommy Bahama business from former licensees in Australia in Fiscal 2012 and in Canada in Fiscal 2013. We also commenced operations in Asia by opening retail store locations in Asia beginning in Fiscal 2012. The operations in the Asia-Pacific region thus far have generated operating losses as we developed a significant Hong Kong-based team and infrastructure to support a larger Asia retail operation. Although we closed our retail stores in Macau and Singapore, as well as outlet stores in Hong Kong and Japan, during Fiscal 2015 and Fiscal 2016, we believe that the operating losses associated with our Tommy Bahama operations in the Asia-Pacific region will continue in the near-future, adversely impacting our results of operations and putting downward pressure on our operating margin, until we have sufficient sales to leverage the operating costs or have otherwise fully exited direct operations in unprofitable jurisdictions.
In addition, we have limited experience with regulatory environments and market practices related to international operations and there are risks associated with doing business in these markets, including lack of brand recognition in certain markets; understanding fashion trends and satisfying consumer tastes; understanding sizing and fitting in these markets; market acceptance of our products, which is difficult to assess immediately; establishing appropriate market-specific operational and logistics functions; managing compliance with the various legal requirements; staffing and managing foreign operations; fluctuations in currency exchange rates; obtaining governmental approvals that may be required to operate; potentially adverse tax implications; and maintaining proper levels of inventory. If we are unable to properly manage these risks or if our international efforts do not prove successful, our business, financial condition and results of operations could continue to be negatively impacted.
As we continue to explore long-term opportunities for our Tommy Bahama brand internationally while simultaneously seeking to reduce the operating losses associated with our Tommy Bahama operations in the Asia-Pacific region, we may elect to enter into retail license and/or wholesale distribution arrangements, or joint ventures, with third parties for certain markets. Any such arrangements are subject to a number of risks and uncertainties, including our reliance on the operational skill and expertise of a local operator, the ability of the joint venture or operator to manage its employees and appropriately represent our brands in those markets and any protective rights that we may be forced to grant to the third party, which could limit our ability to fully realize the anticipated benefits of such a relationship.
We are also subject to certain anti-corruption laws, including the U.S. Foreign Corrupt Practices Act, in addition to the local laws of the foreign countries into which we enter. If any of our international operations, or our employees or agents, violates such laws, we could become subject to sanctions or other penalties that could negatively affect our reputation, business and operating results.
We hold licenses for the use of other parties’ brand names, and we cannot guarantee our continued use of such brand names or the quality or salability of such brand names.
We have entered into license and design agreements to use certain trademarks and trade names, such as Kenneth Cole, Dockers, Geoffrey Beene, Nick Graham and Andrew Fezza, to market some of our products. During Fiscal 2016, sales of products bearing brands licensed to us accounted for 6% of our consolidated net sales and 60% of our Lanier Apparel net sales. When we enter into these license and design agreements, they generally provide for short contract durations (typically three to five years); these agreements often include options that we may exercise to extend the term of the contract but, when available, those option rights are subject to our satisfaction of certain contingencies (e.g., minimum sales thresholds) that may be difficult for us to satisfy. Competitive conditions for the right to use popular trademarks means that we cannot guarantee that we will be able to renew these licenses on acceptable terms upon expiration, that the terms of any renewal will not result in operating margin pressures or reduced profitability or that we will be able to acquire new licenses to use other desirable trademarks. The termination or expiration of a license agreement will cause us to lose the sales and any associated profits generated pursuant to such license, which could be material, and in certain cases could also result in an impairment charge for related assets.
Our license agreements generally require us to receive approval from the brand’s owner of all design and other elements of the licensed products we sell prior to production, as well as to receive approval from the brand owner of distribution channels in which we may sell and the manner in which we market and distribute licensed products. Any failure by us to comply with these requirements could result in the termination of the license agreement.
In addition to certain compliance obligations, all of our significant licenses provide minimum thresholds for royalty payments and advertising expenditures for each license year, which we must pay regardless of the level of our sales of the licensed products. If these thresholds are not met, our licensors may be permitted contractually to terminate these agreements or seek payment of minimum royalties even if the minimum sales are not achieved. In addition, our licensors produce their own products and license their trademarks to other third parties, and we are unable to control the quality of these goods. If licensors or others do not maintain the quality of these trademarks or if the brand image deteriorates, or the licensors otherwise change the parameters of design, pricing, distribution or marketing, our sales and any associated profits generated by such brands may decline.
We make use of debt to finance our operations, which exposes us to risks that could adversely affect our business, financial position and operating results.
Our levels of debt vary as a result of the seasonality of our business, investments in our operations and working capital needs. As of January 28, 2017, we had $91.5 million of borrowings outstanding under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement. In the future, our debt levels may increase under our existing facility or potentially under new facilities, or the terms or forms of our financing arrangements may change.
Our indebtedness includes, and any future indebtedness may include, certain obligations and limitations, including the periodic payment of principal and interest, maintenance of certain covenants and certain other limitations. The negative covenants in our debt agreements limit our ability to incur debt; guaranty certain obligations; incur liens; pay dividends; repurchase common stock; make investments, including the amount we may generally invest in, or use to support, our foreign operations; sell assets; make acquisitions; merge with other companies; or satisfy other debt. These obligations and limitations may increase our vulnerability to adverse economic and industry conditions, place us at a competitive disadvantage compared to our competitors that are less leveraged and limit our flexibility in carrying out our business plan and planning for, or reacting to, industry changes.
In addition, we have interest rate risk on indebtedness under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement. Our exposure to variable rate indebtedness may increase in the future, based on our debt levels and/or the terms of future financing arrangements. An increase in interest rates may require us to pay a greater amount of our funds from operations towards interest, even if the amount of borrowings outstanding remains the same. As a result, we may have to revise or delay our business plans, reduce or delay capital expenditures or otherwise adjust our plans for operations.
The continued growth of our business, whether organically, through acquisitions or otherwise, also depends on our access to sufficient funds. For example, we used borrowings under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement to finance the acquisition of Southern Tide during Fiscal 2016. We typically rely on cash flow from operations and borrowings under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement to fund our working capital, capital expenditures and investment activities. As of January 28, 2017, we had $185.5 million in unused availability under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement. If the need arises in the future to finance expenditures in excess of those supported by our operations and existing credit facilities, we may need to seek additional funding, whether through debt or equity financing. Our ability to obtain that financing will depend on many factors, including prevailing market conditions, our financial condition and, depending on the sources of financing, our ability to negotiate favorable terms and conditions. The terms of any such financing or our inability to secure such financing could adversely affect our ability to execute our strategies.
Labor-related matters, including labor disputes, may adversely affect our operations.
We may be adversely affected as a result of labor disputes in our own operations or in those of third parties with whom we work. Our business depends on our ability to source and distribute products in a timely manner, and our new retail store and restaurant growth is dependent on timely construction of our locations. While we are not subject to any organized labor agreements and have historically enjoyed good employee relations, there can be no assurance that we will not experience work stoppages or other labor problems in the future with our non-unionized employees. In addition, potential labor disputes at independent factories where our goods are produced, shipping ports, or transportation carriers create risks for our business, particularly if a dispute results in work slowdowns, lockouts, strikes or other disruptions during our peak manufacturing, shipping and selling seasons. For example, a severe and prolonged disruption to ocean freight transportation, such as the disruption to West Coast port operations in 2014 and 2015 due to a port workers’ union dispute, delayed our receipt of product. Further, we plan our inventory purchases and forecasts based on the anticipated timing of retail store and restaurant openings, which could be delayed as a result of a number of factors, including labor disputes among contractors engaged to construct our locations or within government licensing or permitting offices. Any potential labor dispute, either in our own operations or in those of third parties on whom we rely, could materially affect our costs, decrease our sales, harm our reputation or otherwise negatively affect our operations.
Our international operations, including foreign sourcing, result in an exposure to fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates.
As a result of our international operations, we are exposed to certain risks in conducting business outside of the United States. The substantial majority of our orders for the production of apparel in foreign countries is denominated in U.S. dollars. If the value of the U.S. dollar decreases relative to certain foreign currencies in the future, then the prices that we negotiate for products could increase, and it is possible that we would not be able to pass this increase on to customers, which would negatively impact our margins. However, if the value of the U.S. dollar increases between the time a price is set and payment for a product, the price we pay may be higher than that paid for comparable goods by competitors that pay for goods in local currencies, and these competitors may be able to sell their products at more competitive prices. Additionally, currency fluctuations could also disrupt the business of our independent manufacturers by making their purchases of raw materials more expensive and difficult to finance.
We received U.S. dollars for 96% of our product sales during Fiscal 2016, with the remaining sales primarily related to our retail operations in Canada, Australia and Japan. An increase in the value of the U.S. dollar compared to other currencies in which we have sales could result in lower levels of sales and earnings in our consolidated statements of operations, although the sales in foreign currencies could be equal to or greater than amounts in prior periods. In addition, to the extent that a stronger U.S. dollar increases costs, and the products are sold in another currency but the additional cost cannot be passed on to our customers, our gross margins will be negatively impacted.
Our operations may be affected by changes in weather patterns, natural or man-made disasters, war, terrorism or other catastrophes.
Our sales volume and operations may be adversely affected by unseasonable or severe weather conditions, natural or man-made disasters, war, terrorist attacks, including heightened security measures and responsive military actions, or other catastrophes which may cause consumers to alter their purchasing habits or result in a disruption to our operations. Because of the seasonality of our business, the concentration of a significant proportion of our retail stores and wholesale customers in certain geographic regions, the concentration of our sourcing operations and the concentration of our distribution operations, the occurrence of such events could disproportionately impact our business, financial condition and operating results.
Our business could be impacted as a result of actions by activist shareholders or others.
We may be subject, from time to time, to legal and business challenges in the operation of our company due to actions instituted by activist shareholders or others. Responding to such actions could be costly and time-consuming, may not align with our business strategies and could divert the attention of our Board of Directors and senior management from the pursuit of our business strategies. Perceived uncertainties as to our future direction as a result of shareholder activism may lead to the perception of a change in the direction of the business or other instability and may affect our relationships with vendors, customers, prospective and current employees and others.
Item 1B. Unresolved Staff Comments
None.
Item 2. Properties
We lease and own space for our retail stores, distribution centers, sales/administration office space and manufacturing facilities in various domestic and international locations. We believe that our existing properties are well maintained, are in good operating condition and will be adequate for our present level of operations.
In the ordinary course of business, we enter into lease agreements for retail space. Most of the leases require us to pay specified minimum rent, as well as a portion of operating expenses, real estate taxes and insurance applicable to the property, plus a contingent rent based on a percentage of the store's net sales in excess of a specific threshold. The leases have varying terms and expirations and may have provisions to extend, renew or terminate the lease agreement, among other terms and conditions. Assets leased under operating leases are not recognized as assets and liabilities in our consolidated balance sheets. Periodically, we assess the operating results of each of our retail stores and restaurants to assess whether the location provides, or is expected to provide, an appropriate long-term return on investment, whether the location remains brand appropriate and other factors. As a result of this assessment, we may determine that it is appropriate to close certain stores that do not continue to meet our investment criteria, not renew certain leases, exercise an early termination option, or otherwise negotiate an early
termination. For existing leases in desirable locations, we anticipate that we will be able to extend our retail leases, to the extent that they expire in the near future, on terms that are satisfactory to us, or if necessary, locate substitute properties on acceptable terms. The terms and conditions of lease renewals or relocations may not be as favorable as existing leases.
As of January 28, 2017, our 208 retail and restaurant locations utilized approximately 0.9 million square feet of leased space in the United States, Canada, Australia, Japan and Hong Kong. Each of our retail stores and restaurants is less than 20,000 square feet, and we do not believe that we are dependent upon any individual retail store or restaurant location for our business operations. Greater detail about the retail space used by each operating group is included in Part I, Item 1, Business included in this report.
As of January 28, 2017, we utilized approximately 1.6 million square feet of owned or leased distribution, manufacturing and administrative/sales facilities in the United States, Mexico and Hong Kong. In addition to our owned distribution facilities, we may utilize certain third party warehouse/distribution providers where we do not own or lease any space. Our distribution, manufacturing, administrative and sales facilities provide space for employees and functions used in support of our retail, wholesale and e-commerce operations.
Details of the principal administrative, sales, distribution and manufacturing facilities used in our operations, including approximate square footage, are as follows: |
| | | | | |
Location | Primary Use | Operating Group | Square Footage | Lease Expiration |
Seattle, Washington | Sales/administration | Tommy Bahama | 115,000 |
| 2026 |
Auburn, Washington | Distribution center | Tommy Bahama | 325,000 |
| 2025 |
King of Prussia, Pennsylvania | Sales/administration and distribution center | Lilly Pulitzer | 160,000 |
| Owned |
Toccoa, Georgia | Distribution center | Lanier Apparel | 310,000 |
| Owned |
Merida, Mexico | Manufacturing plant | Lanier Apparel | 80,000 |
| Owned |
Greenville, South Carolina | Sales/administration | Southern Tide | 12,000 |
| 2017 |
Atlanta, Georgia | Sales/administration | Corporate and Other and Lanier Apparel | 30,000 |
| 2023 |
Lyons, Georgia | Sales/administration and distribution center | Corporate and Other, Lanier Apparel and Southern Tide | 420,000 |
| Owned |
New York, New York | Sales/administration | Various | 40,000 |
| Various |
Hong Kong | Sales/administration | Various | 20,000 |
| Various |
Item 3. Legal Proceedings
From time to time, we are a party to litigation and regulatory actions arising in the ordinary course of business. These actions may relate to trademark and other intellectual property, licensing arrangements, real estate, importing or exporting regulations, taxation, employee relation matters or other topics. We are not currently a party to litigation or regulatory actions, or aware of any proceedings contemplated by governmental authorities, that we believe could reasonably be expected to have a material impact on our financial position, results of operations or cash flows. However, our assessment of any litigation or other legal claims could potentially change in light of the discovery of additional factors not presently known or determinations by judges, juries, or others which are not consistent with our evaluation of the possible liability or outcome of such litigation or claims.
Item 4. Mine Safety Disclosures
Not applicable.
PART II
Item 5. Market for Registrant's Common Equity, Related Stockholder Matters and Issuer Purchases of Equity Securities
Market and Dividend Information
Our common stock is listed and traded on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol "OXM." As of March 15, 2017, there were 289 record holders of our common stock. The following table sets forth the high and low sale prices and quarter-end closing prices of our common stock as reported on the New York Stock Exchange for the quarters indicated. Additionally, the table indicates the dividends per share declared on shares of our common stock by our Board of Directors for each quarter. |
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| High | Low | Close | Dividends |
Fiscal 2016 | | | | |
First Quarter | $ | 77.99 |
| $ | 58.28 |
| $ | 66.42 |
| $ | 0.27 |
|
Second Quarter | $ | 67.15 |
| $ | 52.54 |
| $ | 57.18 |
| $ | 0.27 |
|
Third Quarter | $ | 74.00 |
| $ | 55.14 |
| $ | 62.78 |
| $ | 0.27 |
|
Fourth Quarter | $ | 76.19 |
| $ | 51.81 |
| $ | 54.07 |
| $ | 0.27 |
|
Fiscal 2015 | | | | |
First Quarter | $ | 80.93 |
| $ | 51.13 |
| $ | 78.11 |
| $ | 0.25 |
|
Second Quarter | $ | 90.00 |
| $ | 73.36 |
| $ | 83.93 |
| $ | 0.25 |
|
Third Quarter | $ | 91.24 |
| $ | 67.62 |
| $ | 72.82 |
| $ | 0.25 |
|
Fourth Quarter | $ | 74.72 |
| $ | 54.79 |
| $ | 69.86 |
| $ | 0.25 |
|
We have paid dividends in each quarter since we became a public company in July 1960; however, we may discontinue or modify dividend payments at any time if we determine that other uses of our capital, including payment of outstanding debt, funding of acquisitions, funding of capital expenditures or repurchases of outstanding shares, may be in our best interest; if our expectations of future cash flows and future cash needs outweigh the ability to pay a dividend; or if the terms of our credit facility, other debt instruments or applicable law limit our ability to pay dividends. We may borrow to fund dividends in the short term based on our expectation of operating cash flows in future periods subject to the terms and conditions of our credit facility, other debt instruments and applicable law. All cash flow from operations will not necessarily be paid out as dividends in all periods.
For details about limitations on our ability to pay dividends, see Note 5 of our consolidated financial statements and Part II, Item 7. Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations, both contained in this report.
Recent Sales of Unregistered Securities
We did not sell any unregistered equity securities during Fiscal 2016.
Purchases of Equity Securities by the Issuer and Affiliated Purchasers
We have certain stock incentive plans as described in Note 7 to our consolidated financial statements included in this report, all of which are publicly announced plans. Under the plans, we can repurchase shares from employees to cover employee tax liabilities related to the vesting of equity awards. During the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2016, no shares were repurchased pursuant to these plans.
In March 2017, our Board of Directors authorized us to spend up to $50 million to repurchase shares of our stock. This authorization superseded and replaced all previous authorizations to repurchase shares of our stock and has no automatic expiration.
Securities Authorized for Issuance Under Equity Compensation Plans
The information required by this Item 5 of Part II will appear in our definitive proxy statement under the heading "Equity Compensation Plan Information" and is incorporated herein by reference.
Stock Price Performance Graph
The graph below reflects cumulative total shareholder return (assuming an initial investment of $100 and the reinvestment of dividends) on our common stock compared to the cumulative total return for a period of five years, beginning January 28, 2012 and ending January 28, 2017, of:
| |
• | The S&P SmallCap 600 Index; and |
| |
• | The S&P 500 Apparel, Accessories and Luxury Goods. |
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| | INDEXED RETURNS |
| Base | Years Ended |
| Period | | | | | |
Company / Index | 1/28/2012 | 2/2/2013 |
| 2/1/2014 |
| 1/31/2015 |
| 1/30/2016 |
| 1/28/2017 |
|
Oxford Industries, Inc. | 100 | 102.03 |
| 156.90 |
| 117.90 |
| 149.31 |
| 117.62 |
|
S&P SmallCap 600 Index | 100 | 116.02 |
| 147.38 |
| 156.45 |
| 149.12 |
| 201.31 |
|
S&P 500 Apparel, Accessories & Luxury Goods | 100 | 92.94 |
| 107.86 |
| 111.82 |
| 93.69 |
| 79.82 |
|
Item 6. Selected Financial Data
Our selected financial data included in the table below reflects the acquisition of the Southern Tide operations and assets in April 2016 and the divestiture of the operations and assets of our former Ben Sherman operating group in July 2015,
resulting in the Ben Sherman operations being classified as discontinued operations in our consolidated statements of operations for all periods presented. Cash flow, capital expenditures, equity compensation, depreciation and amortization amounts below include amounts for both continuing and discontinued operations as our consolidated statements of cash flow are presented on a consolidated basis including continuing and discontinued operations.
|
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 |
| Fiscal 2015 |
| Fiscal 2014 |
| Fiscal 2013 |
| Fiscal 2012 |
|
| (in millions, except per share amounts) |
Net sales | $ | 1,022.6 |
| $ | 969.3 |
| $ | 920.3 |
| $ | 849.9 |
| $ | 773.6 |
|
Cost of goods sold | 439.8 |
| 411.2 |
| 402.4 |
| 368.4 |
| 343.5 |
|
Gross profit | 582.8 |
| 558.1 |
| 517.9 |
| 481.5 |
| 430.1 |
|
SG&A | 507.1 |
| 475.0 |
| 439.1 |
| 399.1 |
| 362.7 |
|
Royalties and other operating income | 14.2 |
| 14.4 |
| 13.9 |
| 13.9 |
| 10.7 |
|
Operating income | 89.9 |
| 97.5 |
| 92.8 |
| 96.3 |
| 78.1 |
|
Loss on repurchase of debt | — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| 9.1 |
|
Interest expense, net | 3.4 |
| 2.5 |
| 3.2 |
| 3.9 |
| 8.7 |
|
Earnings from continuing operations before income taxes | 86.5 |
| 95.1 |
| 89.6 |
| 92.4 |
| 60.3 |
|
Income taxes | 32.0 |
| 36.5 |
| 35.8 |
| 36.9 |
| 23.1 |
|
Net earnings from continuing operations | 54.5 |
| 58.5 |
| 53.8 |
| 55.4 |
| 37.2 |
|
(Loss) income, including loss on sale, from discontinued operations, net of taxes | (2.0 | ) | (28.0 | ) | (8.0 | ) | (10.1 | ) | (5.9 | ) |
Net earnings | $ | 52.5 |
| $ | 30.6 |
| $ | 45.8 |
| $ | 45.3 |
| $ | 31.3 |
|
Diluted earnings from continuing operations per share | $ | 3.27 |
| $ | 3.54 |
| $ | 3.27 |
| $ | 3.36 |
| $ | 2.24 |
|
Diluted (loss) income, including loss on sale, from discontinued operations per share | $ | (0.12 | ) | $ | (1.69 | ) | $ | (0.49 | ) | $ | (0.62 | ) | $ | (0.36 | ) |
Diluted net earnings per share | $ | 3.15 |
| $ | 1.85 |
| $ | 2.78 |
| $ | 2.75 |
| $ | 1.89 |
|
Diluted weighted average shares outstanding | 16.6 |
| 16.6 |
| 16.5 |
| 16.5 |
| 16.6 |
|
Dividends declared and paid | $ | 18.1 |
| $ | 16.6 |
| $ | 13.9 |
| $ | 11.9 |
| $ | 9.9 |
|
Dividends declared and paid per share | $ | 1.08 |
| $ | 1.00 |
| $ | 0.84 |
| $ | 0.72 |
| $ | 0.60 |
|
Total assets, at period-end | $ | 685.2 |
| $ | 582.7 |
| $ | 622.4 |
| $ | 606.9 |
| $ | 533.1 |
|
Long-term debt at period-end | $ | 91.5 |
| $ | 44.0 |
| $ | 104.8 |
| $ | 137.6 |
| $ | 108.6 |
|
Shareholders' equity, at period-end | $ | 376.1 |
| $ | 334.4 |
| $ | 290.6 |
| $ | 260.2 |
| $ | 229.8 |
|
Cash provided by operating activities | $ | 118.6 |
| $ | 105.4 |
| $ | 95.4 |
| $ | 52.7 |
| $ | 67.1 |
|
Capital expenditures | $ | 49.4 |
| $ | 73.1 |
| $ | 50.4 |
| $ | 43.4 |
| $ | 60.7 |
|
Depreciation and amortization expense | $ | 42.2 |
| $ | 36.4 |
| $ | 37.6 |
| $ | 33.9 |
| $ | 26.3 |
|
Equity compensation expense | $ | 6.4 |
| $ | 5.2 |
| $ | 4.1 |
| $ | 1.7 |
| $ | 2.8 |
|
LIFO accounting (credit) charge | $ | (5.9 | ) | $ | 0.3 |
| $ | 2.1 |
| $ | — |
| $ | 4.0 |
|
Book value per share at period-end | $ | 22.43 |
| $ | 20.14 |
| $ | 17.64 |
| $ | 15.85 |
| $ | 13.85 |
|
Item 7. Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations
The following discussion and analysis of our operations, cash flows, liquidity and capital resources should be read in conjunction with our consolidated financial statements contained in this report.
OVERVIEW
We are a global apparel company that designs, sources, markets and distributes products bearing the trademarks of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide lifestyle brands, other owned brands and licensed brands as well as private label apparel products. During Fiscal 2016, 92% of our net sales were from products bearing brands that we own and 66% of our net sales were through our direct to consumer channels of distribution. In Fiscal 2015, 96% of our consolidated net sales were to customers located in the United States, with the sales outside the United States consisting primarily of our Tommy Bahama products in Canada and the Asia-Pacific region.
Our business strategy is to develop and market compelling lifestyle brands and products that evoke a strong emotional response from our target consumers. We consider lifestyle brands to be those brands that have a clearly defined and targeted point of view inspired by an appealing lifestyle or attitude. Furthermore, we believe lifestyle brands like Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide that create an emotional connection with consumers can command greater loyalty and higher price points at retail and create licensing opportunities, which may drive higher earnings. We believe the attraction of a lifestyle brand depends on creating compelling product, effectively communicating the respective lifestyle brand message and distributing products to consumers where and when they want it.
Our ability to compete successfully in styling and marketing is directly related to our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference, and presenting appealing products for consumers. Our design-led, commercially informed lifestyle brand operations strive to provide exciting, differentiated products each season.
To further strengthen each lifestyle brand's connections with consumers, we directly communicate with consumers through electronic and print media on a regular basis. We believe our ability to effectively communicate the images, lifestyle and products of our brands and create an emotional connection with consumers is critical to the success of the brands. Our advertising for our brands often attempts to convey the lifestyle of the brand as well as a specific product.
We distribute our owned lifestyle branded products primarily through our direct to consumer channels, consisting of our Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer retail stores and our e-commerce sites for Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide, and through our wholesale distribution channels. Our direct to consumer operations provide us with the opportunity to interact directly with our customers, present to them a broad assortment of our current season products and immerse them in the theme of the lifestyle brand. We believe that presenting our products in a setting specifically designed to showcase the lifestyle on which the brands are based enhances the image of our brands. Our Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores provide high visibility for our brands and products, and allow us to stay close to the preferences of our consumers, while also providing a platform for long-term growth for the brands. In Tommy Bahama, we also operate a limited number of restaurants, generally adjacent to a Tommy Bahama full-price retail store location, which we believe further enhance the brand's image with consumers.
Additionally, our e-commerce websites, which represented 18% of our consolidated net sales in Fiscal 2016, provide the opportunity to increase revenues by reaching a larger population of consumers and at the same time allow our brands to provide a broader range of products. Our e-commerce flash clearance sales on our websites and our Tommy Bahama outlet stores play an important role in overall brand and inventory management by allowing us to sell discontinued and out-of-season products in brand appropriate settings and often at better prices than are typically available from third party off-price retailers.
The wholesale operations of our lifestyle brands complement our direct to consumer operations and provide access to a larger group of consumers. As we seek to maintain the integrity of our lifestyle brands by limiting promotional activity in our full-price retail stores and e-commerce websites, we generally target wholesale customers that follow this same approach in their stores. Our wholesale customers for our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide brands include better department stores and specialty stores, including Signature Stores for Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide.
Within our Lanier Apparel operating group, we sell tailored clothing and sportswear products under licensed brands, private labels and owned brands. Lanier Apparel's customers include department stores, discount and off-price retailers, warehouse clubs, national chains, specialty retailers and others throughout the United States.
All of our operating groups operate in highly competitive apparel markets in which numerous U.S.-based and foreign apparel firms compete. No single apparel firm or small group of apparel firms dominates the apparel industry, and our direct competitors vary by operating group and distribution channel. We believe the principal competitive factors in the apparel industry are reputation, value, and image of brand names; design; consumer preference; price; quality; marketing; product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service.
The apparel industry is cyclical and very dependent upon the overall level and focus of discretionary consumer spending, which changes as regional, domestic and international economic conditions change. Often, negative economic conditions have a longer and more severe impact on the apparel industry than on other industries. We believe current global
economic conditions and the resulting economic uncertainty continue to impact our business, and the apparel industry as a whole.
We believe the retail apparel market is evolving very rapidly and in ways that are having a disruptive impact on traditional fashion retailing. The application of technology, including the internet and mobile devices, to fashion retail provides consumers increasing access to multiple, responsive distribution platforms and an unprecedented ability to communicate directly with brands, retailers and others. As a result, consumers have more information and broader, faster and cheaper access to goods than they have ever had before. This, along with the coming of age of the “millennial” generation, is revolutionizing the way that consumers shop for fashion and other goods. The evidence is increasingly apparent with marked weakness in department stores and mall-based retailers, decreased consumer retail traffic, a more promotional retail environment, expansion of off-price and discount retailers, and growing internet purchases.
While this evolution in the fashion retail industry presents significant risks, especially for traditional retailers who fail or are unable to adapt, we believe it also presents a tremendous opportunity for brands and retailers. We believe our brands have attributes that are true competitive advantages in this new retailing paradigm and we are leveraging technology to serve our consumers when and where they want to be served. We continue to believe that our lifestyle brands are well suited to succeed and thrive in the long term while managing the various challenges facing our industry.
Specifically, we believe our lifestyle brands have opportunities for long-term growth in their direct to consumer businesses. We anticipate increased sales in our e-commerce operations, which are expected to grow at a faster rate than bricks and mortar comparable full-price retail store sales. This growth can also be achieved through prudent expansion of bricks and mortar full-price retail store operations and modest comparable full-price retail store sales increases. Despite the changes in the retail environment, we expect there will continue to be desirable locations to increase our store count.
Our lifestyle brands also have an opportunity for modest sales increases in their wholesale businesses in the long term primarily from current customers adding to their existing door count and increasing their on-line business, increased sales to on-line retailers and the selective addition of new wholesale customers who generally follow a retail model with limited discounting; however, we must be diligent in our effort to avoid compromising the integrity of the brand by maintaining or growing sales with wholesale customers that may not be aligned with our long-term strategy. This is particularly important with the challenges in the department store channel, which represents about one-half of our consolidated wholesale sales, or 16% of our consolidated net sales. We also believe that there are opportunities for modest sales growth for Lanier Apparel in the future through new product programs for existing and new customers.
We believe we must continue to invest in our lifestyle brands to take advantage of their long-term growth opportunities. Investments include capital expenditures primarily related to the direct to consumer operations such as technology enhancements, e-commerce initiatives, full-price retail store and restaurant build-out for new and relocated locations as well as remodels, and distribution center and administrative office expansion initiatives. Additionally, while we anticipate increased employment, advertising and other costs in key functions to support the ongoing business operations and fuel future sales growth, we remain focused on appropriately managing our operating expenses.
In the midst of the challenges in our industry, an important focus for us in Fiscal 2017 is advancing various initiatives to increase the profitability of the Tommy Bahama business. These initiatives generally focus on increasing gross margin and operating margin through efforts such as: product cost reductions; selective price increases; reducing inventory purchases; more rapidly clearing excess inventory; redefining our approach to inventory clearance; effectively managing controllable and discretionary operating expenses; taking a more conservative approach to full-price retail store and outlet openings and renewals; and continuing our efforts to reduce Asia-Pacific operating losses.
We continue to believe it is important to maintain a strong balance sheet and liquidity. We believe positive cash flow from operations in the future coupled with the strength of our balance sheet and liquidity will provide us with sufficient resources to fund future investments in our owned lifestyle brands. While we believe we have significant opportunities to appropriately deploy our capital and resources in our existing lifestyle brands, we will continue to evaluate opportunities to add additional lifestyle brands to our portfolio if we identify appropriate targets which meet our investment criteria.
Important factors relating to certain risks, many of which are beyond our ability to control or predict, which could impact our business are described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors of this report.
The following table sets forth our consolidated operating results from continuing operations (in thousands, except per share amounts) for Fiscal 2016 compared to Fiscal 2015: |
| | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 |
Net sales | $ | 1,022,588 |
| $ | 969,290 |
|
Operating income | $ | 89,884 |
| $ | 97,514 |
|
Net earnings from continuing operations | $ | 54,499 |
| $ | 58,537 |
|
Net earnings from continuing operations per diluted share | $ | 3.27 |
| $ | 3.54 |
|
The primary reasons for the lower earnings from continuing operations per diluted share in Fiscal 2016 were the lower operating income in Tommy Bahama and increased interest expense partially offset by higher income in Lilly Pulitzer, improved operating results in Corporate and Other and a lower effective tax rate.
Southern Tide Acquisition
On April 19, 2016, we acquired Southern Tide, LLC, which owns the Southern Tide lifestyle apparel brand. Southern Tide carries an extensive selection of men’s shirts, pants, shorts, outerwear, ties, swimwear, footwear and accessories, as well as a women’s collection. The brand’s products are sold through its wholesale operations to specialty stores, department stores and Southern Tide Signature Stores as well as through its direct to consumer operations on the Southern Tide website. The purchase price for the acquisition was $85 million in cash, subject to adjustment based on net working capital as of the closing date for the acquisition. We used borrowings under our revolving credit facility to finance the transaction. For additional information about the Southern Tide acquisition, refer to Part I, Item 1. Business and Note 2 to our consolidated financial statements, both included in this report.
OPERATING GROUPS
Our business is primarily operated through our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Lanier Apparel and Southern Tide operating groups. We identify our operating groups based on the way our management organizes the components of our business for purposes of allocating resources and assessing performance. Our operating group structure reflects a brand-focused management approach, emphasizing operational coordination and resource allocation across each brand's direct to consumer, wholesale and licensing operations, as applicable.
Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide each design, source, market and distribute apparel and related products bearing their respective trademarks and also license their trademarks for other product categories, while Lanier Apparel designs, sources and distributes branded and private label men's tailored clothing, sportswear and other products. Corporate and Other is a reconciling category for reporting purposes and includes our corporate offices, substantially all financing activities, elimination of inter-segment sales, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments, other costs that are not allocated to the operating groups and operations of our other businesses which are not included in our operating groups, including our Lyons, Georgia distribution center operations. Our LIFO inventory pool does not correspond to our operating group definitions; therefore, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments are not allocated to our operating groups.
For additional information about each of our operating groups, see Part I, Item 1. Business and Note 2 to our consolidated financial statements, both included in this report.
COMPARABLE STORE SALES
We often disclose comparable store sales in order to provide additional information regarding changes in our results of operations between periods. Our disclosures of comparable store sales include net sales from full-price retail stores and our e-commerce sites, excluding sales associated with e-commerce flash clearance sales. We believe that the inclusion of both our full-price retail stores and e-commerce sites in the comparable store sales disclosures is a more meaningful way of reporting our comparable store sales results, given similar inventory planning, allocation and return policies, as well as our cross-channel marketing and other initiatives for the direct to consumer channel. For our comparable store sales disclosures, we exclude (1) outlet store sales, warehouse sales and e-commerce flash clearance sales, as those clearance sales are used primarily to liquidate end of season inventory, which may vary significantly depending on the level of end of season inventory on hand and generally occur at lower gross margins than our non-clearance direct to consumer sales, and (2) restaurant sales, as we do not currently believe that the inclusion of restaurant sales is meaningful in assessing our consolidated results of operations. Comparable store sales information reflects net sales, including shipping and handling revenues, if any, associated with product sales.
For purposes of our disclosures, we consider a comparable store to be, in addition to our e-commerce sites, a physical full-price retail store that was owned and open as of the beginning of the prior fiscal year and which did not have during the relevant periods, and is not within the current fiscal year scheduled to have, (1) a remodel resulting in the store being closed for an extended period of time (which we define as a period of two weeks or longer), (2) a greater than 15% change in the size of the retail space due to expansion, reduction or relocation to a new retail space, (3) a relocation to a new space that was significantly different from the prior retail space, or (4) a closing or opening of a Tommy Bahama restaurant adjacent to the full-price retail store. For those stores which are excluded from comparable stores based on the preceding sentence, the stores continue to be excluded from comparable store sales until the criteria for a new store is met subsequent to the remodel, relocation or restaurant closing or opening. A store that is remodeled generally will continue to be included in our comparable store sales metrics as a store is not typically closed for a two week period during a remodel; however, in some cases a store may be closed for more than two weeks during a remodel. A store that is relocated generally will not be included in our comparable store sales metrics until that store has been open in the relocated space for the entirety of the prior fiscal year as the size or other characteristics of the store typically change significantly from the prior location. Additionally, any stores that were closed during the prior fiscal year or current fiscal year, or which we plan to close or vacate in the current fiscal year, are excluded from the definition of comparable store sales.
Definitions and calculations of comparable store sales differ among retail companies, and therefore comparable store sales metrics disclosed by us may not be comparable to the metrics disclosed by other companies.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
The following table sets forth the specified line items in our consolidated statements of operations both in dollars (in thousands) and as a percentage of net sales. We have calculated all percentages based on actual data, but percentage columns may not add due to rounding. |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 |
Net sales | $ | 1,022,588 |
| 100.0 | % | $ | 969,290 |
| 100.0 | % | $ | 920,325 |
| 100.0 | % |
Cost of goods sold | 439,814 |
| 43.0 | % | 411,185 |
| 42.4 | % | 402,376 |
| 43.7 | % |
Gross profit | 582,774 |
| 57.0 | % | 558,105 |
| 57.6 | % | 517,949 |
| 56.3 | % |
SG&A | 507,070 |
| 49.6 | % | 475,031 |
| 49.0 | % | 439,069 |
| 47.7 | % |
Royalties and other operating income | 14,180 |
| 1.4 | % | 14,440 |
| 1.5 | % | 13,939 |
| 1.5 | % |
Operating income | 89,884 |
| 8.8 | % | 97,514 |
| 10.1 | % | 92,819 |
| 10.1 | % |
Interest expense, net | 3,421 |
| 0.3 | % | 2,458 |
| 0.3 | % | 3,236 |
| 0.4 | % |
Earnings from continuing operations before income taxes | 86,463 |
| 8.5 | % | 95,056 |
| 9.8 | % | 89,583 |
| 9.7 | % |
Income taxes | 31,964 |
| 3.1 | % | 36,519 |
| 3.8 | % | 35,786 |
| 3.9 | % |
Net earnings from continuing operations | $ | 54,499 |
| 5.3 | % | $ | 58,537 |
| 6.0 | % | $ | 53,797 |
| 5.8 | % |
Loss from discontinued operations, net of taxes | (2,038 | ) | NM |
| (27,975 | ) | NM |
| (8,039 | ) | NM |
|
Net earnings | $ | 52,461 |
| NM |
| $ | 30,562 |
| NM |
| $ | 45,758 |
| NM |
|
Weighted average shares outstanding - diluted | 16,649 |
| | 16,559 |
| | 16,471 |
| |
Unless otherwise indicated, all references to assets, liabilities, revenues, expenses and other information in this report reflect continuing operations and exclude any amounts related to the discontinued operations of our former Ben Sherman operating group which we sold in Fiscal 2015. Refer to Note 13 in our consolidated financial statements included in this report for additional information about discontinued operations.
FISCAL 2016 COMPARED TO FISCAL 2015
The discussion and tables below compare certain line items included in our statements of operations for Fiscal 2016 to Fiscal 2015. Each dollar and percentage change provided reflects the change between these periods unless indicated otherwise. Each dollar and share amount included in the tables is in thousands except for per share amounts. Individual line
items of our consolidated statements of operations may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
Net Sales
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 658,911 |
| $ | 658,467 |
| $ | 444 |
| 0.1 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer | 233,294 |
| 204,626 |
| 28,668 |
| 14.0 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 100,753 |
| 105,106 |
| (4,353 | ) | (4.1 | )% |
Southern Tide | 27,432 |
| — |
| 27,432 |
| NM |
|
Corporate and Other | 2,198 |
| 1,091 |
| 1,107 |
| NM |
|
Total | $ | 1,022,588 |
| $ | 969,290 |
| $ | 53,298 |
| 5.5 | % |
Consolidated net sales increased $53.3 million, or 5.5%, in Fiscal 2016 compared to Fiscal 2015. The increase in consolidated net sales was primarily driven by (1) the $27.4 million of net sales of Southern Tide, which was acquired on April 19, 2016, (2) an incremental net sales increase of $20.2 million associated with the operation of additional full-price retail stores in Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer, (3) a $7.0 million net increase in direct to consumer clearance sales reflecting an increase in e-commerce flash clearance sales at Lilly Pulitzer and decreases in outlet store sales at Tommy Bahama and (4) a $5.4 million increase in restaurant sales in Tommy Bahama. These sales increases were partially offset by a $6.5 million, or 2%, decrease in comparable store sales to $404.1 million in Fiscal 2016 from $410.6 million in Fiscal 2015 reflecting a decrease in comparable store sales at Tommy Bahama of 3% and an increase in comparable store sales at Lilly Pulitzer of 2%. We believe that certain macroeconomic factors, including lower retail store traffic, the evolving impact of digital technology on consumer shopping habits and the 2016 election cycle, impacted the sales in each of our direct to consumer and wholesale businesses in Fiscal 2016. The changes in net sales by operating group are discussed below.
The following table presents the proportion of our consolidated net sales by distribution channel for each period presented:
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 |
Full-price retail stores and outlets | 41 | % | 42 | % |
E-commerce | 18 | % | 17 | % |
Restaurant | 7 | % | 7 | % |
Wholesale | 34 | % | 34 | % |
Total | 100 | % | 100 | % |
Tommy Bahama:
The Tommy Bahama net sales increase of $0.4 million, or 0.1%, was primarily driven by (1) an incremental net sales increase of $12.4 million associated with the operation of additional full-price retail stores and (2) a $5.4 million increase in restaurant sales primarily resulting from the impact of a full year of operations of the Waikiki restaurant in Fiscal 2016 and a modest increase at restaurants open for the full year of Fiscal 2016 and Fiscal 2015. These sales increases were offset by (1) a $8.8 million, or 3%, decrease in comparable store sales to $302.5 million in Fiscal 2016 from $311.3 million in Fiscal 2015, (2) a $3.6 million decrease in net sales through our off-price direct to consumer clearance channels, primarily reflecting a decrease in sales in existing outlet stores, and (3) a $5.2 million decrease in wholesale sales. The decreases in the direct to consumer channels were primarily due to lower traffic in both our full-price retail stores and outlet stores. The decrease in wholesale sales reflects lower full-price wholesale sales reflecting the challenging environment of our wholesale department store and specialty store accounts.
As of January 28, 2017, we operated 168 Tommy Bahama stores globally, consisting of 111 full-price retail stores, 17 retail-restaurant locations and 40 outlet stores. As of January 30, 2016, we operated 164 Tommy Bahama stores consisting of 107 full-price retail stores, 16 retail-restaurant locations and 41 outlet stores. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Tommy Bahama for each period presented:
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 |
Full-price retail stores and outlets | 50 | % | 50 | % |
E-commerce | 16 | % | 15 | % |
Restaurant | 11 | % | 11 | % |
Wholesale | 23 | % | 24 | % |
Total | 100 | % | 100 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer:
The Lilly Pulitzer net sales increase of $28.7 million, or 14.0%, was primarily a result of (1) an incremental net sales increase of $11.2 million associated with the operation of additional full-price retail stores, (2) a $10.7 million increase in e-commerce flash clearance sales, (3) an $8.2 million increase in wholesale sales primarily resulting from increased orders from existing wholesale customers and (4) a $2.2 million, or 2%, increase in comparable store sales to $101.5 million in Fiscal 2016 compared to $99.3 million in Fiscal 2015. These sales increases were partially offset by a net $3.8 million decrease in warehouse sales as Lilly Pulitzer did not anniversary its June warehouse sale in 2016. As of January 28, 2017, we operated 40 Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores, after opening six new stores, acquiring one former Signature Store and closing one store during Fiscal 2016, compared to 34 full-price retail stores as of January 30, 2016. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Lilly Pulitzer for each period presented:
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 |
Full-price retail stores and warehouse sales | 36 | % | 38 | % |
E-commerce | 32 | % | 30 | % |
Wholesale | 32 | % | 32 | % |
Total | 100 | % | 100 | % |
Lanier Apparel:
The decrease in net sales for Lanier Apparel of $4.4 million, or 4.1%, was primarily due to lower sales of $6.5 million in the tailored clothing business partially offset by a $2.0 million increase in the sportswear business. The decreased sales in the tailored clothing business was primarily due to lower sales in certain programs including reductions in volume, shifts of timing and exits from various programs. These reductions in volume were partially offset by initial shipments and volume increases in other programs. The increased sales in the sportswear business were primarily due to increased volumes in private label sportswear programs.
Southern Tide:
The net sales of Southern Tide reflect the sales of Southern Tide for the period from the date of acquisition on April 19, 2016 through January 28, 2017. During the period from April 19, 2016 through January 28, 2017, 77% of Southern Tide's net sales were wholesale sales with the remainder of the sales consisting of e-commerce sales. We estimate that net sales in Fiscal 2017 will be in excess of $40 million, with about 75% to 80% of the sales consisting of wholesale sales and the remainder consisting of e-commerce sales on the Southern Tide website.
Corporate and Other:
Corporate and Other net sales primarily consist of the net sales of our Lyons, Georgia distribution center to third party warehouse customers as well as the impact of the elimination of intercompany sales between our operating groups. Net sales in Fiscal 2015 included the unfavorable impact of the elimination of intercompany sales between our operating groups with no meaningful impact of intercompany sales between our operating groups in Fiscal 2016.
Gross Profit
The table below presents gross profit by operating group and in total for Fiscal 2016 and Fiscal 2015 as well as the change between those two periods. Our gross profit and gross margin, which is calculated as gross profit divided by net sales, may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as the statement of operations classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 386,650 |
| $ | 393,221 |
| $ | (6,571 | ) | (1.7 | )% |
Lilly Pulitzer | 148,345 |
| 132,791 |
| 15,554 |
| 11.7 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 29,490 |
| 30,460 |
| (970 | ) | (3.2 | )% |
Southern Tide | 10,912 |
| — |
| 10,912 |
| NM |
|
Corporate and Other | 7,377 |
| 1,633 |
| 5,744 |
| NM |
|
Total gross profit | $ | 582,774 |
| $ | 558,105 |
| $ | 24,669 |
| 4.4 | % |
LIFO (credit) charge included in Corporate and Other | $ | (5,884 | ) | $ | 254 |
| |
| |
|
Inventory step-up charge included in Southern Tide | $ | 2,667 |
| $ | — |
| | |
The increase in consolidated gross profit was primarily due to higher net sales, as discussed above, and the net favorable impact of LIFO accounting. The favorable impact of these items was partially offset by the unfavorable impact of the inventory step-up charge included in Southern Tide and lower gross margins in Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer, both as discussed below. The table below presents gross margin by operating group and in total for Fiscal 2016 and Fiscal 2015.
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 |
Tommy Bahama | 58.7 | % | 59.7 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer | 63.6 | % | 64.9 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 29.3 | % | 29.0 | % |
Southern Tide | 39.8 | % | NM |
|
Corporate and Other | NM |
| NM |
|
Consolidated gross margin | 57.0 | % | 57.6 | % |
On a consolidated basis, gross margin decreased in Fiscal 2016, primarily as a result of lower gross margins in Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer, partially offset by the net favorable impact of LIFO accounting
Tommy Bahama:
The decrease in Tommy Bahama's gross margin in Fiscal 2016 was primarily due to $5 million of inventory markdowns in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2016 for certain women's, home and other products as well as lower gross margin in both the direct to consumer and wholesale businesses. The inventory markdowns primarily resulted from a change in Tommy Bahama's approach to inventory clearance; starting in January 2017, Tommy Bahama intends to aggressively clear prior season inventory by taking initial markdowns on certain product categories in its full-price retail stores and then clearing any remaining inventory through both its outlet stores and third party off-price retailers and by operating the outlet stores with lower inventory levels and with better merchandised assortments.
The lower gross margins in the direct to consumer channel primarily reflects lower gross margins in outlet store and e-commerce flash clearance sales which were primarily due to our efforts to drive traffic in our outlet stores, reduce inventory levels and dispose of prior season inventory during Fiscal 2016. The higher discounting in our off-price direct to consumer channel was focused on women's, home and other products as well as footwear, which we have transitioned to a third party licensee. Full-price retail store and e-commerce gross margins were also lower primarily due to a greater proportion of sales in Fiscal 2016 occurring in connection with our loyalty award card, Flip-Side and Friends & Family marketing events, which typically have lower gross margins than sales during non-promotional periods, and the impact of Tommy Bahama discounting certain end-of-season women, home and other product in store and on-line beginning in January 2017. The decrease in gross margin in the wholesale distribution channel was primarily due to a change in sales mix with off-price sales representing a greater proportion of Tommy Bahama's wholesale sales in Fiscal 2016.
Lilly Pulitzer:
The decrease in gross margin for Lilly Pulitzer in Fiscal 2016 was primarily driven by the change in sales mix as e-commerce flash clearance sales represented a greater proportion of sales during Fiscal 2016 and in-store markdowns were more significant in Fiscal 2016.
Lanier Apparel:
The increase in gross margin for Lanier Apparel was primarily due to the net favorable impact of in-stock program allowances and inventory markdowns in Fiscal 2016 as compared to Fiscal 2015.
Southern Tide:
The gross profit of Southern Tide for Fiscal 2016 includes the gross profit of Southern Tide for the period from the date of acquisition on April 19, 2016 through January 28, 2017, which was impacted by $2.7 million of incremental cost of goods sold associated with the step-up of inventory recognized at acquisition. Therefore, we do not consider the gross profit or gross margin for this period to be indicative of expected gross profit, or gross margin, for future periods. All amounts related to the step-up of inventory were recognized during Fiscal 2016, thus gross margin for Southern Tide is expected to be higher in future periods.
Corporate and Other:
The gross profit in Corporate and Other in each period primarily reflects (1) the gross profit of our Lyons, Georgia distribution center operations, (2) the impact of LIFO accounting adjustments and (3) the impact of certain consolidating adjustments, including the elimination of intercompany sales between our operating groups. The primary driver for the higher gross profit was that Fiscal 2016 was favorably impacted by a LIFO accounting credit of $5.9 million with no significant impact from LIFO accounting in Fiscal 2015. The LIFO accounting credit in Fiscal 2016 was primarily due to the LIFO accounting reversal of the significant inventory markdowns recognized in Tommy Bahama during Fiscal 2016.
SG&A
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
SG&A | $ | 507,070 |
| $ | 475,031 |
| $ | 32,039 |
| 6.7 | % |
SG&A (as a % of net sales) | 49.6 | % | 49.0 | % | |
| |
|
Amortization of intangible assets included in Tommy Bahama associated with Tommy Bahama Canada acquisition | $ | 1,491 |
| $ | 1,521 |
| | |
Amortization of intangible assets included in Southern Tide | $ | 263 |
| $ | — |
| | |
Transaction expenses associated with the Southern Tide acquisition included in Corporate and Other | $ | 762 |
| $ | — |
| | |
Distribution center integration charges | $ | 454 |
| $ | — |
| | |
The increase in SG&A was primarily due to (1) $16.9 million of incremental costs in Fiscal 2016 associated with additional Tommy Bahama full-price retail stores and restaurants and Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores, (2) $11.4 million of SG&A associated with Southern Tide, including amortization of intangible assets and distribution center integration costs, (3) an increase in brand advertising, marketing and other expenses in Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer to increase brand awareness and provide support for the brands, (4) increased depreciation expense of $2.2 million related to e-commerce operations and inventory/order management systems in Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer that were implemented in the First Quarter of Fiscal 2016, (5) asset impairment charges of $1.9 million primarily related to three outlet store closings and certain information technology assets, (6) an increase in severance expenses of $1.5 million and (6) $0.8 million of transaction expenses associated with the Southern Tide acquisition, which are included in Corporate and Other. These SG&A increases were partially offset by $8.0 million of lower incentive compensation, with decreases in each operating group as well as Corporate and Other.
SG&A included amortization of intangible assets of $2.2 million in Fiscal 2016 and $2.0 million in Fiscal 2015 with the increase primarily due to amortization related to the Southern Tide intangible assets. We anticipate that amortization of intangible assets for Fiscal 2017 will be approximately $2.2 million.
Royalties and other operating income
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Royalties and other operating income | $ | 14,180 |
| $ | 14,440 |
| $ | (260 | ) | (1.8 | )% |
Royalties and other operating income in Fiscal 2016 primarily reflects income received from third parties from the licensing of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide brands. The decrease in royalty income for Fiscal 2016 reflects a decrease in royalty income from Lilly Pulitzer which was partially offset by an increase in royalty income from Tommy Bahama and the royalty income associated with the Southern Tide business.
Operating income (loss)
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 44,101 |
| $ | 65,993 |
| $ | (21,892 | ) | (33.2 | )% |
Lilly Pulitzer | 51,995 |
| 42,525 |
| 9,470 |
| 22.3 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 6,955 |
| 7,700 |
| (745 | ) | (9.7 | )% |
Southern Tide | (282 | ) | — |
| (282 | ) | NM |
|
Corporate and Other | (12,885 | ) | (18,704 | ) | 5,819 |
| 31.1 | % |
Total operating income | $ | 89,884 |
| $ | 97,514 |
| $ | (7,630 | ) | (7.8 | )% |
LIFO (credit) charge included in Corporate and Other | $ | (5,884 | ) | $ | 254 |
| |
| |
|
Inventory step-up charge included in Southern Tide | $ | 2,667 |
| $ | — |
| | |
Amortization of intangible assets included in Tommy Bahama associated with Tommy Bahama Canada acquisition | $ | 1,491 |
| $ | 1,521 |
| | |
Amortization of intangible assets included in Southern Tide | $ | 263 |
| $ | — |
| |
| |
|
Transaction expenses associated with the Southern Tide acquisition included in Corporate and Other | $ | 762 |
| $ | — |
| | |
Distribution center integration charges | $ | 454 |
| $ | — |
| | |
The decrease in operating income in Fiscal 2016 as compared to Fiscal 2015 was primarily due to the lower operating income in Tommy Bahama, including $7.1 million of inventory markdown, severance and store closing charges incurred in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2016, and Lanier Apparel and the operating loss in Southern Tide. These items were partially offset by higher income in Lilly Pulitzer and improved operating results in Corporate and Other. Changes in operating income (loss) by operating group are discussed below.
Tommy Bahama:
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 658,911 |
| $ | 658,467 |
| $ | 444 |
| 0.1 | % |
Gross margin | 58.7 | % | 59.7 | % | |
| |
|
Operating income | $ | 44,101 |
| $ | 65,993 |
| $ | (21,892 | ) | (33.2 | )% |
Operating income as % of net sales | 6.7 | % | 10.0 | % | |
| |
|
Amortization of intangible assets included in Tommy Bahama associated with Tommy Bahama Canada acquisition | $ | 1,491 |
| $ | 1,521 |
| | |
The lower operating results for Tommy Bahama were primarily due to the lower gross margin, as discussed above, and higher SG&A in Fiscal 2016. The higher SG&A for Fiscal 2016 includes (1) $11.8 million of incremental SG&A associated with operating additional full-price retail stores and restaurants, (2) an increase in brand advertising, marketing and other expenses in Tommy Bahama to increase brand awareness and provide support for the brand, (3) $1.3 million of increased severance costs, (4) increased depreciation expense of $1.9 million related to e-commerce operations, which were primarily related to website upgrades implemented in the First Quarter of Fiscal 2016, and the Tommy Bahama office in Seattle, Washington, and (5) asset impairment charges of $0.9 million primarily related to outlet store closures. These SG&A increases were partially offset by $0.7 million of lower incentive compensation. Included in the gross margin impact and SG&A items above, we incurred charges of $7.1 million in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2016 consisting of $4.7 million of inventory markdowns, $0.9 million of severance charges and $1.6 million of charges related to outlet store closings which are anticipated to improve future operating results.
Lilly Pulitzer:
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 233,294 |
| $ | 204,626 |
| $ | 28,668 |
| 14.0 | % |
Gross margin | 63.6 | % | 64.9 | % | |
| |
|
Operating income | $ | 51,995 |
| $ | 42,525 |
| $ | 9,470 |
| 22.3 | % |
Operating income as % of net sales | 22.3 | % | 20.8 | % | |
| |
|
The increase in operating income in Lilly Pulitzer was primarily due to the higher net sales partially offset by the impact of the lower gross margin and higher SG&A. SG&A increased primarily due to (1) $5.2 million of incremental SG&A associated with operating additional Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores, (2) an increase in brand advertising, marketing and other expenses in Lilly Pulitzer to increase brand awareness and provide support for the brand, (3) increased depreciation expense of $1.1 million related to inventory/order management system upgrades implemented in the First Quarter of Fiscal 2016, and (4) other increases in SG&A, including additional employee headcount to support the growing business. These increases in SG&A were partially offset by a $5.4 million reduction in incentive compensation during Fiscal 2016, primarily resulting from the retirement of the former co-chief executive officers from the business in the First Quarter of Fiscal 2016.
Lanier Apparel:
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 100,753 |
| $ | 105,106 |
| $ | (4,353 | ) | (4.1 | )% |
Gross margin | 29.3 | % | 29.0 | % | |
| |
|
Operating income | $ | 6,955 |
| $ | 7,700 |
| $ | (745 | ) | (9.7 | )% |
Operating income as % of net sales | 6.9 | % | 7.3 | % | |
| |
|
The decrease in operating income for Lanier Apparel was primarily due to lower sales partially offset by improved gross margin and lower SG&A, resulting from lower incentive compensation.
Southern Tide:
|
| | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 27,432 |
| $ | — |
| $ | 27,432 |
| NM |
Gross margin | 39.8 | % | NA |
| |
| |
Operating loss | $ | (282 | ) | $ | — |
| $ | (282 | ) | NM |
Operating loss as % of net sales | (1.0 | )% | NA |
| | |
Inventory step-up charge included in Southern Tide | $ | 2,667 |
| $ | — |
| | |
Amortization of intangible assets included in Southern Tide | $ | 263 |
| $ | — |
| | |
Distribution center integration charges | $ | 454 |
| $ | — |
| | |
The net sales, gross margin and operating loss of Southern Tide reflect the results of Southern Tide for the period from the date of acquisition on April 19, 2016 through January 28, 2017. We do not consider the results for this period to be indicative of expected results on an annual basis or for future periods. During Fiscal 2016, the operating results of Southern Tide were impacted by the $2.7 million of incremental cost of goods sold related to the step-up of inventory at acquisition, recognized in cost of goods sold as the acquired inventory was sold, $0.3 million of amortization of intangible assets and the $0.5 million of distribution center integration charges recognized during the Second Quarter of Fiscal 2016.
Corporate and Other:
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 2,198 |
| $ | 1,091 |
| $ | 1,107 |
| NM |
|
Operating loss | $ | (12,885 | ) | $ | (18,704 | ) | $ | 5,819 |
| 31.1 | % |
LIFO (credit) charge included in Corporate and Other | $ | (5,884 | ) | $ | 254 |
| |
| |
|
Transaction expenses associated with the Southern Tide acquisition included in Corporate and Other | $ | 762 |
| $ | — |
| | |
The improved operating results in Corporate and Other were primarily due to the net favorable impact of LIFO accounting of $6.1 million and $0.9 million of lower incentive compensation amounts in Fiscal 2016. These favorable items were partially offset by the impact of $0.8 million of transaction expenses associated with the Southern Tide acquisition in the First Quarter of Fiscal 2016 and the prior year including a $0.9 million gain on the sale of real estate.
Interest expense, net
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Interest expense, net | $ | 3,421 |
| $ | 2,458 |
| $ | 963 |
| 39.2 | % |
Interest expense for Fiscal 2016 increased from the prior year primarily due to higher average borrowings outstanding during the year and the write off of approximately $0.3 million of deferred financing costs associated with our amendment and restatement of our revolving credit agreement. We anticipate that we will incur approximately $4 million of interest expense in Fiscal 2017 due to higher expected interest rates.
Income taxes
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Income taxes | $ | 31,964 |
| $ | 36,519 |
| $ | (4,555 | ) | (12.5 | )% |
Effective tax rate | 37.0 | % | 38.4 | % | |
| |
|
Income tax expense for Fiscal 2016 decreased, reflecting lower earnings and a lower effective tax rate. The lower effective tax rate in Fiscal 2016 compared to Fiscal 2015 was primarily due to (1) improved operating results in our Hong Kong-based sourcing operations and Tommy Bahama Asia-Pacific retail operations resulting in the utilization of certain foreign net operating loss carryforwards, (2) the reversal of valuation allowances in certain foreign jurisdictions based on our assessment of the facts and circumstances related to our ability to realize those net operating loss carryforwards in future periods, (3) lower domestic earnings and (4) certain favorable discrete items, including the tax benefit associated with the vesting of certain restricted stock awards. Our effective tax rate for Fiscal 2017 is expected to be approximately 39%, reflecting an expected unfavorable impact on tax expense of stock awards with a grant date fair value of $78 per share that vest in April 2017 and the absence of operating loss carryforwards we may utilize in Fiscal 2017.
Net earnings from continuing operations
|
| | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 |
Net earnings from continuing operations | $ | 54,499 |
| $ | 58,537 |
|
Net earnings from continuing operations per diluted share | $ | 3.27 |
| $ | 3.54 |
|
Weighted average shares outstanding - diluted | 16,649 |
| 16,559 |
|
The primary reasons for the lower earnings from continuing operations per diluted share in Fiscal 2016 were the lower operating income in Tommy Bahama and increased interest expense partially offset by higher income in Lilly Pulitzer, improved operating results in Corporate and Other and a lower effective tax rate.
Discontinued operations
|
| | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2016 | Fiscal 2015 | $ Change | % Change |
Loss from discontinued operations, net of taxes | $ | (2,038 | ) | $ | (27,975 | ) | $ | 25,937 |
| NM |
The loss from discontinued operations, net of taxes in Fiscal 2016 primarily reflects an additional loss related to the retained lease obligations of our discontinued operations primarily as a result of the default and failure to pay by a sub-tenant and an updated assessment of the anticipated losses considering anticipated sub-lease income to be earned, timing of obtaining a tenant, lease incentives and market rents. Fiscal 2015 reflects the loss on the sale of our former Ben Sherman business, which was sold in the Second Quarter of Fiscal 2015, as well as the operations of the discontinued operations prior to disposal and any charges related to the discontinued operations subsequent to disposal. We do not anticipate significant operations or earnings related to the discontinued operations in future periods, with cash flow attributable to discontinued operations in the future primarily related to the amounts associated with certain retained lease obligations, which are estimated at $5.4 million as of January 28, 2017. The estimated lease liability represents our best estimate of the future net loss anticipated with respect to the
retained lease obligations; however, the ultimate loss remains uncertain as the amount of any sub-lease income is dependent upon negotiated terms of any sub-lease agreements entered into for the space and the ability of those sub-tenants to pay the sub-lease income or alternatively, dependent upon lease termination costs negotiated with the landlords in the future.
FISCAL 2015 COMPARED TO FISCAL 2014
The discussion and tables below compare certain line items included in our statements of operations for Fiscal 2015 and Fiscal 2014. Each dollar and percentage change provided reflects the change between these periods unless indicated otherwise. Each dollar and share amount included in the tables is in thousands except for per share amounts. Individual line items of our consolidated statements of operations may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
Net Sales
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 | $ Change | % Change |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 658,467 |
| $ | 627,498 |
| $ | 30,969 |
| 4.9 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer | 204,626 |
| 167,736 |
| 36,890 |
| 22.0 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 105,106 |
| 126,430 |
| (21,324 | ) | (16.9 | )% |
Corporate and Other | 1,091 |
| (1,339 | ) | 2,430 |
| NM |
|
Total net sales | $ | 969,290 |
| $ | 920,325 |
| $ | 48,965 |
| 5.3 | % |
Consolidated net sales increased $49.0 million, or 5.3%, in Fiscal 2015 compared to Fiscal 2014 reflecting changes in net sales of each operating group, as discussed below. The 5.3% increase in consolidated net sales was primarily driven by (1) a $28.8 million, or 7%, increase in comparable store sales to $418.3 million in Fiscal 2015 from $389.5 million in Fiscal 2014, (2) an incremental net sales increase of $28.4 million associated with the operation of additional full-price retail stores, (3) a $5.4 million increase in restaurant sales resulting from the operation of additional restaurants and increased sales at existing restaurants, (4) a $5.2 million net increase in outlet store, e-commerce flash clearance and warehouse sales. These increases in net sales were partially offset by an $18.9 million decrease in wholesale sales including the $21.3 million decrease in Lanier Apparel. The following table presents the proportion of our consolidated net sales by distribution channel for each period presented:
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 |
Full-price retail stores, outlets and warehouse sales | 42 | % | 40 | % |
E-commerce, e-commerce flash clearance sales | 17 | % | 15 | % |
Restaurant | 7 | % | 7 | % |
Wholesale | 34 | % | 38 | % |
Total | 100 | % | 100 | % |
Tommy Bahama:
The Tommy Bahama net sales increase of $31.0 million, or 4.9%, was primarily driven by (1) an incremental net sales increase of $18.0 million associated with the operation of additional full-price retail stores, (2) a $7.8 million, or 3%, increase in comparable store sales to $317.8 million in Fiscal 2015 from $310.0 million in Fiscal 2014, (3) a $5.4 million increase in restaurant sales resulting from the operation of two restaurants opened in Fiscal 2014 and Fiscal 2015 as well as increased sales in existing restaurants and (4) a $2.1 million increase in outlet store and flash clearance sales, including the impact of new outlets opened in Fiscal 2014 and Fiscal 2015. These increases in net sales were partially offset by a $2.9 million decrease in wholesale sales.
As of January 30, 2016, we operated 164 Tommy Bahama stores globally, consisting of 107 full-price retail stores, 16 retail-restaurant locations and 41 outlet stores. As of January 31, 2015 we operated 157 Tommy Bahama stores globally consisting of 101 full-price retail stores, 15 retail-restaurant locations and 41 outlet stores. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Tommy Bahama for each period presented:
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 |
Full-price retail stores and outlets | 50 | % | 50 | % |
E-commerce, including e-commerce flash clearance sales | 15 | % | 14 | % |
Restaurant | 11 | % | 10 | % |
Wholesale | 24 | % | 26 | % |
Total | 100 | % | 100 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer:
The Lilly Pulitzer net sales increase of $36.9 million, or 22.0%, was primarily a result of (1) a $21.1 million, or 27%, increase in comparable store sales to $100.5 million in Fiscal 2015 compared to $79.5 million in Fiscal 2014, (2) an incremental net sales increase of $10.4 million associated with the operation of additional full-price retail stores, (3) a $2.9 million increase in wholesale sales, (4) an increase in e-commerce flash clearance sales of $1.7 million to $18.4 million in Fiscal 2015, and (5) $0.9 million higher sales at the June warehouse sale. As of January 30, 2016, we operated 34 Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores compared to 28 full-price retail stores as of January 31, 2015. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Lilly Pulitzer for each period presented:
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 |
Full-price retail stores and warehouse sales | 38 | % | 34 | % |
E-commerce, including e-commerce flash clearance sales | 30 | % | 28 | % |
Wholesale | 32 | % | 38 | % |
Total | 100 | % | 100 | % |
Lanier Apparel:
The decrease in net sales for Lanier Apparel of $21.3 million, or 16.9%, reflects a decrease in net sales in the private label and branded businesses for both tailored clothing and sportswear. The branded and private label businesses were unfavorably impacted by the reduction in or exit from certain replenishment and other programs.
Corporate and Other:
Corporate and Other net sales primarily consist of the net sales of our Lyons, Georgia distribution center as well as the impact of the elimination of intercompany sales between our operating groups, which exceeded net sales of our Lyons, Georgia distribution center in Fiscal 2014. The increase in Corporate and Other sales was primarily due to a smaller unfavorable impact of the elimination of intercompany sales in Fiscal 2015.
Gross Profit
The table below presents gross profit by operating group and in total for Fiscal 2015 and Fiscal 2014 as well as the change between those two periods. Our gross profit and gross margin, which is calculated as gross profit divided by net sales, may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as statement of operations classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 | $ Change | % Change |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 393,221 |
| $ | 377,415 |
| $ | 15,806 |
| 4.2 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer | 132,791 |
| 106,317 |
| 26,474 |
| 24.9 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 30,460 |
| 34,159 |
| (3,699 | ) | (10.8 | )% |
Corporate and Other | 1,633 |
| 58 |
| 1,575 |
| NM |
|
Total gross profit | $ | 558,105 |
| $ | 517,949 |
| $ | 40,156 |
| 7.8 | % |
LIFO charge included in Corporate and Other | $ | 254 |
| $ | 2,131 |
| |
| |
|
The increase in consolidated gross profit was primarily driven by higher net sales, as discussed above, as well as a change in sales mix as a greater proportion of consolidated net sales were sales at Lilly Pulitzer, which typically has higher gross margins than our other operating groups, and the net favorable impact of LIFO accounting in Fiscal 2015 as compared to
Fiscal 2014. In addition to the impact of the changes in net sales, gross profit on a consolidated basis and for each operating group was impacted by the change in sales mix and gross margin within each operating group, as discussed below. The table below presents gross margin by operating group and in total for Fiscal 2015 and Fiscal 2014.
|
| | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 |
Tommy Bahama | 59.7 | % | 60.1 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer | 64.9 | % | 63.4 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 29.0 | % | 27.0 | % |
Corporate and Other | NM |
| NM |
|
Consolidated gross margin | 57.6 | % | 56.3 | % |
On a consolidated basis, gross margin increased in Fiscal 2015, primarily as a result of (1) Lilly Pulitzer representing a greater proportion and Lanier Apparel representing a lower proportion of consolidated net sales, (2) direct to consumer sales, which typically provide a higher gross margin, representing a greater proportion of consolidated net sales, (3) improved gross margins in Lilly Pulitzer and Lanier Apparel and (4) the net favorable impact of LIFO accounting in Fiscal 2015 as compared to Fiscal 2014. These favorable items were partially offset by the lower gross margin in Tommy Bahama.
Tommy Bahama:
The reduction in gross margin for Tommy Bahama reflected lower gross margins in both the direct to consumer and wholesale channels of distribution, which offset the favorable impact of a change in sales mix with direct to consumer sales representing a greater proportion of net sales. The lower direct to consumer gross margin was primarily due to a greater proportion of sales in our full-price retail stores and e-commerce website occurring in connection with Tommy Bahama's loyalty award card, Flip-Side and Friends & Family events and more significant in-store discounts in our outlet stores. The lower gross margin in the wholesale business was primarily a result of more significant discounts and allowances, particularly for wholesale off-price sales.
Lilly Pulitzer:
The increase in gross margin for Lilly Pulitzer was primarily driven by a change in sales mix towards the direct to consumer channel of distribution and an increase in gross margins of the direct to consumer businesses.
Lanier Apparel:
The increase in gross margin for Lanier Apparel was primarily due to a change in sales mix with a greater proportion of sales consisting of higher gross margin branded business programs, in both the tailored clothing and sportswear businesses, which was partially offset by the impact of more significant inventory markdowns in Fiscal 2015.
Corporate and Other:
The gross profit in Corporate and Other in each period primarily reflects (1) the gross profit of our Lyons, Georgia distribution center operations, (2) the impact of LIFO accounting adjustments and (3) the impact of certain consolidating adjustments, including the elimination of intercompany sales between our operating groups. The higher gross profit for Corporate and Other was due to the lower impact of LIFO accounting in Fiscal 2015.
SG&A
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 | $ Change | % Change |
SG&A | $ | 475,031 |
| $ | 439,069 |
| $ | 35,962 |
| 8.2 | % |
SG&A as % of net sales | 49.0 | % | 47.7 | % | |
| |
|
Amortization of intangible assets included in Tommy Bahama associated with Tommy Bahama Canada acquisition | $ | 1,521 |
| $ | 1,764 |
| | |
Change in fair value of contingent consideration included in Lilly Pulitzer | $ | — |
| $ | 275 |
| | |
The increase in SG&A was primarily due to (1) $19.9 million of incremental costs in Fiscal 2015 associated with additional Tommy Bahama full-price retail stores and restaurants, including the Waikiki retail-restaurant location, and Lilly Pulitzer stores, (2) costs to support the growing Lilly Pulitzer and Tommy Bahama businesses, (3) $2.7 million of increased occupancy costs associated with duplicate rent expense, moving costs and higher rent structure related to the relocation of Tommy Bahama's office in Seattle, Washington and (4) $1.1 million of additional equity compensation expense. SG&A included $1.9 million of amortization of intangible assets in Fiscal 2015 compared to $2.3 million in Fiscal 2014.
Royalties and other operating income
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 | $ Change | % Change |
Royalties and other operating income | $ | 14,440 |
| $ | 13,939 |
| $ | 501 |
| 3.6 | % |
Royalties and other operating income primarily reflect income received from third parties from the licensing of our Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer brands. The $0.5 million increase in royalties and other income reflects increased royalty income for both Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer.
Operating income (loss)
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 | $ Change | % Change |
Tommy Bahama | $ | 65,993 |
| $ | 71,132 |
| $ | (5,139 | ) | (7.2 | )% |
Lilly Pulitzer | 42,525 |
| 32,190 |
| 10,335 |
| 32.1 | % |
Lanier Apparel | 7,700 |
| 10,043 |
| (2,343 | ) | (23.3 | )% |
Corporate and Other | (18,704 | ) | (20,546 | ) | 1,842 |
| 9.0 | % |
Total operating income | $ | 97,514 |
| $ | 92,819 |
| $ | 4,695 |
| 5.1 | % |
LIFO charge included in Corporate and Other | $ | 254 |
| $ | 2,131 |
| |
| |
|
Amortization of intangible assets included in Tommy Bahama associated with Tommy Bahama Canada acquisition | $ | 1,521 |
| $ | 1,764 |
| | |
Change in fair value of contingent consideration included in Lilly Pulitzer | $ | — |
| $ | 275 |
| |
| |
|
The increase in operating income was primarily due to the higher operating income in Lilly Pulitzer and a lower operating loss in Corporate and Other, partially offset by lower operating income in Tommy Bahama and Lanier Apparel. Changes in operating income (loss) by operating group are discussed below.
Tommy Bahama:
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 | $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 658,467 |
| $ | 627,498 |
| $ | 30,969 |
| 4.9 | % |
Gross margin | 59.7 | % | 60.1 | % | |
| |
|
Operating income | $ | 65,993 |
| $ | 71,132 |
| $ | (5,139 | ) | (7.2 | )% |
Operating income as % of net sales | 10.0 | % | 11.3 | % | |
| |
|
Amortization of intangible assets included in Tommy Bahama associated with Tommy Bahama Canada acquisition | $ | 1,521 |
| $ | 1,764 |
| | |
The lower operating income for Tommy Bahama was primarily due to the higher SG&A and lower gross margin partially offset by higher sales. The higher SG&A reflects (1) $15.1 million of incremental SG&A associated with the cost of operating additional full-price retail stores and restaurants, including pre-opening rent and set-up costs associated with new stores and restaurants, (2) $2.7 million of increased occupancy costs associated with duplicate rent expense, moving costs and higher rent structure related to the relocation of Tommy Bahama's office in Seattle, Washington during the Third Quarter of Fiscal 2015 and (3) higher costs to support the growing Tommy Bahama business. These higher SG&A amounts were partially offset by reductions in other SG&A accounts, including incentive compensation. The operating loss for the Tommy Bahama Waikiki retail-restaurant location prior to opening in late October 2015 was $2.1 million, with the substantial majority of this loss consisting of pre-opening rent and set-up costs, which are included in the incremental SG&A amount associated with new locations above. Fiscal 2015 included an operating loss of $8.3 million related to our Tommy Bahama Asia-Pacific expansion compared to an operating loss of $10.3 million in Fiscal 2014.
Lilly Pulitzer:
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 |
| Fiscal 2014 |
| $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 204,626 |
| $ | 167,736 |
| $ | 36,890 |
| 22.0 | % |
Gross margin | 64.9 | % | 63.4 | % | |
| |
|
Operating income | $ | 42,525 |
| $ | 32,190 |
| $ | 10,335 |
| 32.1 | % |
Operating income as % of net sales | 20.8 | % | 19.2 | % | |
| |
|
Change in fair value of contingent consideration included in Lilly Pulitzer | $ | — |
| $ | 275 |
| |
| |
|
The increase in operating income in Lilly Pulitzer was primarily due to the higher net sales and gross margin. These items were partially offset by increased SG&A. The increased SG&A was primarily associated with (1) higher costs to support the growing business, reflecting increased infrastructure costs and advertising expense, (2) $4.8 million of incremental SG&A associated with the cost of operating additional full-price retail stores and (3) $1.0 million of higher incentive compensation.
Lanier Apparel:
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| Fiscal 2015 | Fiscal 2014 | $ Change | % Change |
Net sales | $ | 105,106 |
| $ | 126,430 |
| $ | (21,324 | ) | (16.9 | )% |
Gross margin | 29.0 | % | 27.0 | % | |
| |
|
Operating income | |